HomeClimbingFirst Blood

First Blood at The Training Grounds

Morrison, Colorado United States
roof
small holds
gear extending
runout
broken rock
trad
Colorado
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
First Blood
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"First Blood is a compact but committed trad climb in Colorado’s Training Grounds, combining precise gear placements with technical moves on broken rock and a tense roof section. Ideal for climbers sharpening their trad skills, it offers a clear-cut introduction to grounded adventure on natural stone."

First Blood at The Training Grounds

First Blood offers a no-nonsense introduction to the sharp edges and subtle challenges of traditional climbing in Colorado’s Training Grounds. This compact 50-foot route demands a confident approach as you ascend broken slabs that test both your movement and mental control. The climb kicks off with a technical negotiation of a left-facing corner capped by a small roof, where careful gear placements become critical. Don’t rush here—each nut and cam sized up to three inches will serve as your lifeline in securing protection, especially under the roof where you’ll need to thoughtfully extend your gear with slings to keep the runouts manageable. Beyond this key sequence, the route steps onto a face that appears modest at first but beckons climbers to stay sharp; small holds pepper the path above, and the space between protection can stretch, pushing you to trust your footwork and body position.

Located a short trek into the rugged folds of Devil's Head, First Blood shares the same anchors as the more committing Too Much, offering a potential combo for those looking to stretch their day with additional climbing. The Training Grounds itself holds a quietly raw character, where wind-worn rock and open skies frame each ascent. The sparse vegetation and open exposure mean weather conditions can shift quickly, so timing your climb for stable, drier days is a practical move. Approaching the cliff involves a straightforward hike over mixed terrain—expect loose rock and some steep sections that require careful footing.

Beyond its physical demands, First Blood teaches climbers to read the rock and manage gear effectively. The route doesn't overwhelm with length or complexity but packs a punch in its requirement for precise placements and steady composure. For those honing their trad skills, this climb is a worthy checkpoint: it’s short yet demanding, offering a grounded taste of Colorado’s granite with little buffer for indecision. Plan on sturdy shoes with excellent edging capability, a rack focused on smaller cams and nuts, and slings of various lengths to stay safe and flexible around tricky spots. Water and weather preparedness are just as important as your climbing kit here; the exposed setting leaves little shelter, and afternoon storms can roll in with little notice.

First Blood isn’t just a climb; it’s an invitation to engage with the rock through sharp focus and practical skill. It rewards carefully paced moves and a measured mindset while placing you squarely in the honest adventure of Colorado trad climbing. Whether you’re stepping into your first multi-pitch or looking to polish your crack and face climbing technique, this route will test your essentials and give you a clear view of what it takes to move well on natural rock.

Climber Safety

Protection under the left-facing roof requires deliberate placements and slings to manage rope drag. The broken rock can be loose in places, so test holds carefully and proceed with controlled movements to minimize fall risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon winds and potential storms common in this exposed area.

Focus on precise footwork to conserve energy on the broken rock slabs.

Use longer slings under the roof for better gear extension and reduced rope drag.

Check the weather forecast carefully; the area dries out quickly but is prone to sudden summer storms.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels true to style, with a crux that demands careful gear placements and controlled movement rather than brute power. While the moves aren’t excessively hard, the sparse and small holds above the roof create a persistent challenge. Comparatively, this climb ranks as a solid step up from local 5.8s due to its mental demands and protection spacing.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with nuts and cams up to 3 inches. Slings are essential for extending protection, particularly under the small roof to reduce rope drag and protect runouts effectively.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of First Blood and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

roof
small holds
gear extending
runout
broken rock
trad
Colorado