"First Black One offers a focused 70-foot sport climb in Steamboat Springs. Expect technical moves on edges and sidepulls combined with route-finding challenges that reward careful footwork and commitment."
First Black One is a compact but thoughtful sport climb tucked into the Wax Museum sector of Steamboat Springs, Colorado. The route challenges with a technical approach from the moment you clip the first bolt. Your fingers find purchase on subtle edges and sidepulls, demanding precise footwork and steady balance. As you ascend, the wall plays with different textures—mini-overhangs test your core control while gentle bulges require a careful shift of weight. Once the steepness softens, the climb turns into a navigation puzzle where choosing which holds to trust and which line to follow becomes the defining trial. At roughly 70 feet, this single-pitch climb invites climbers who appreciate a measured blend of reach, balance, and route reading. Protection comes from six well-spaced bolts capped by chain anchors, offering solid security throughout.
Located within easy reach of downtown Steamboat Springs, First Black One offers an accessible spot to sharpen sport climbing skills without the commitment of multi-pitch exposure or complex gear hauling. The limestone here is known for its clean, compact feel, providing a reliable grip that rewards thoughtful movement over brute strength. Climbers should be prepared for a move or two that push the 5.8 rating toward the stiff side, especially for those newer to face climbing on small holds.
Approaching the crag, expect a short but rugged access trail winding through mixed terrain—an earthy path shadowed by cottonwoods and pines offers welcome respite from the sun during summer visits. Early morning or late afternoon sessions are ideal to avoid midday heat, as the south-facing wall basks in sunlight for most of the day. Plan your effort around cooler hours to stay sharp on the often slippery footholds.
Gear-wise, six bolts spaced at moderate intervals mean a standard sport climbing rack will suffice—draws, a helmet, and a well-maintained rope set the foundation for a secure ascent. The anchors are solidly fixed, making the top-out and descent straightforward. Once you finish, descending by a single rappel or carefully downclimbing the easier terrain nearby is the smooth route off the wall.
First Black One delivers an engaging test of technique and decision-making. It’s a concise outing packed with subtle challenges, nestled within Steamboat’s inviting climbing community where local flavor and mountain air pulse with every swing of your chalked hands. Whether you're dialing in your sport climbing fundamentals or simply after an approachable, sharp climb in a beautiful outdoor setting, this route is a fine addition to your Colorado climbing day.
Watch your foot placements on small holds, especially when transitioning past bulges. Though well protected, the bolt spacing requires precise clipping and cautious movement to avoid falls that might swing you into the face.
Start early or late to avoid the full heat on this south-facing wall.
Pay close attention to foot placements—small edges demand precision.
Bring a full set of quickdraws for the six bolts spaced throughout.
Rappel down carefully or downclimb the easy terrain at the top anchors.
Six bolts provide secure protection with chain anchors at the top. A standard sport rack with quickdraws and a helmet is sufficient for the climb.
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