"Fire Stone challenges climbers with a bold balance of thin face moves and a technical crack flake on Northern California’s granite. This single-pitch trad route demands steady footwork and clean gear placements, offering an accessible yet thrilling experience close to Indian Springs."
Fire Stone unfolds as a focused test of balance and precision tucked into the sprawling granite faces of Lower Cliffs’ Upper Tier near Indian Springs. Starting just right of the easygoing Super Doo crack, this trad route demands attention from the first step up a short but tricky chimney scramble. As you plant your feet on the face, granite textures shift beneath your hands, offering a series of holds that feel both familiar and challenging—a textured puzzle waiting to be solved. The route’s rhythm is interrupted by a crucial sequence near the second bolt, where you’ll step delicately left on thin, uncertain footholds. The rock here demands respect: slip and the ground is unforgivingly close.
Ascending, Fire Stone reveals its signature feature—a left-facing flake corner that invites solid protection and a brief respite from the exposed moves. From here, the final challenge awaits. Committing to a slender step off the flake and onto the sheer face marks the route’s crux. One or two technical moves lead directly to the anchors, where relief and exhilaration mix. Though the climb only stretches 50 feet with a single pitch, its dual cruxes reward careful footwork and mental focus over brute strength.
The approach offers a brief but earnest introduction with a short scramble that gains the cliff base quickly. Approaching via established trails near Indian Springs makes access straightforward, though caution is essential on the chimney and at the top where small scrambles expose height without giving margin for error. Protection consists of two bolts, augmented by well-placed small to medium trad gear placements. Do not underestimate the importance of solid gear and steady nerves here. Your anchors await with double bolts, offering a secure end point for your efforts.
Fire Stone dances between inviting and intimidating, offering a practical route that challenges skill and composure more than endurance. This climb suits those ready to sharpen their crack and face climbing techniques against the backdrop of Northern California’s quiet wilderness. The granite here is not flashy or exaggerated—it’s honest, firm, and speaks clearly to the climber willing to listen.
For those planning a trip, timing your climb for morning hours helps avoid the afternoon sun, as the wall faces east and heats up quickly later in the day. Wear shoes that balance sensitivity for thin edging with enough stiffness to support precise steps on tiny footholds. Hydration and helmet use are essential, especially given the exposed chimney approach and potential for rockfall. With thoughtful preparation, Fire Stone delivers a memorable stretch of moderate trad climbing grounded in technique and presence.
Watch your footing on the chimney scramble approaching the route—falls here could be severe. The delicate step left below the second bolt is runout and requires confident balance. Helmets and careful protection placements are critical to minimize risk.
Approach via the established trail to Indian Springs and scramble cautiously up the chimney.
Start early to climb in cooler morning sunlight on the east-facing wall.
Double-check placements before committing to the delicate move below the second bolt.
Wear a helmet to protect from loose rock near the chimney and cliff top.
Two bolts are complemented by small to medium trad gear placements, ensuring reliable protection when placed carefully. Double bolted anchors secure the top belay. A good rack covering cams in smaller sizes is essential, especially for the left-facing flake.
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