"Finger Rake offers a compelling single-pitch trad climb that threads hand and finger cracks with a striking arete finish amid the quiet wilderness of Lassen National Park. Technical and accessible, it’s ideal for climbers seeking a sharp, focused challenge off the beaten path."
Finger Rake is a focused single-pitch trad climb that carves through the rugged granite of Lassen National Park’s Raker Peak. Starting with a hand and fist crack that threads past a cluster of hardy bushes, this route demands steady technical climbing right from the first move. As you ascend roughly 40 feet, the climb shifts left into a distinctive finger crack, inviting precise fingertip jams that test your control and patience. The crack pushes upward, leading to an exposed arete where you engage both balance and commitment as you edge along its sharp profile.
This route rewards climbers with a natural rhythm—cracks that feel alive, as if the rock itself challenges you to find your line and move smoothly. At the top, the climb opens to a broad ledge crowned by a stately pine tree, the perfect spot to sling your gear and enjoy a moment of calm above the forest canopy. Protection is straightforward but demands a full rack, from small cams like .4 inches to robust pieces up to 3 inches, complemented by a solid set of nuts. Offsets also add valuable options for tricky placements in the thinning crack sections.
Approach is direct through forested trails with modest elevation gain that keeps you alert to shifting terrain underfoot and the scent of pine oil carried on a steady breeze. The climb’s natural setting not only shapes the movements but also offers climbs in tranquility, far from the congestion of more popular areas in the park. Ideal timing to tackle Finger Rake is spring through early fall, when the rock dries quickly after rains and temperatures remain moderate. Early starts are recommended to avoid midday sun on the exposed sections, granting cooler hands and more comfortable climbing conditions.
This route is well-suited to climbers with solid crack climbing skills and a desire for a pure trad experience. It challenges you without excessive commitment, making it both a valuable technical exercise and a rewarding solo pitch. Don’t underestimate the subtle crux found navigating the finger crack and the balance required on the arete—both demand focus and calm execution.
Make sure to pack slings to wrap around the pine tree for anchors, and plan your descent carefully as the ledge can be narrow and transitioning off the climb requires attention. Hydrate thoroughly and come prepared for the altitude and weather shifts typical of Lassen’s northeast flank. Finger Rake at Raker Peak stitches together technical climbing, elemental granite features, and a quiet wilderness environment in a compact and compelling package.
The ledge at the top is spacious but bordered by a large pine tree for anchor placement—ensure your slings are solid and in good condition. Watch for loose rocks near the arete section, and be mindful that the initial bushy approach can hide tripping hazards. Weather conditions can change rapidly; be prepared for cooler temperatures at elevation.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun on the exposed arete.
Bring extra slings for building solid anchors around the pine tree.
Expect some brush along the initial approach—wear long pants and sturdy shoes.
Hydrate well and prepare for temperature swings common in Lassen’s alpine environment.
A rack with cams ranging from .4 to 3 inches, a full set of nuts, and useful offset nuts will cover the protection needs. Don’t forget slings to anchor around the prominent pine tree at the top ledge.
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