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Finger, Fist and Hand Trad Climb at One Toque Wall

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
hand crack
trad
single pitch
crack climbing
Squamish
granite
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Finger, Fist and Hand
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Finger, Fist and Hand carves a clean, deliberate line up a right-leaning finger crack and left-leaning hand crack on the granite faces of One Toque Wall. This accessible 5.9 trad route gives intermediate climbers a rich crack climbing test nestled in the quiet corners of The Smoke Bluffs."

Finger, Fist and Hand Trad Climb at One Toque Wall

Set against the rugged backdrop of The Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, Finger, Fist and Hand offers climbers a focused test of traditional crack climbing with a straightforward yet rewarding line. This 50-foot single pitch routes its ascent up a right-leaning finger crack before shifting smoothly into a left-leaning hand and fist crack, providing a tactile, hands-on connection to the rock. As you finger-lock and jam your way up, the granite feels alive beneath your palms, its texture sharpening your grip and guiding your movements.

The climb's moderate 5.9 rating makes it approachable for intermediate trad climbers who want to sharpen crack skills without overextending themselves. The route flows cleanly and efficiently, demanding solid footwork and steady placements of gear up to 3 inches. Protection opportunities are generous but require care to craft secure placements that will hold if the rock tests your steadiness.

Approaching One Toque Wall involves a straightforward hike through forested patches that cool morning sun filters through, leading to clean granite faces framed by firs and cedars. The rock’s surface is clean and textured, with solid holds, though occasional flakes and dimpled edges keep you tuned in. The climb’s position just left of the main dihedral gives it a quiet, less crowded vibe, letting you focus on connecting with each crack section as it shifts from pencil-thin to wide and welcoming.

Gear to 3 inches covers the placements well, so bring a full rack of cams and stoppers. Good crack shoes will make the difference here, as foot jams and stem moves demand both comfort and precision. Timing your climb for a dry day in spring through early fall will keep cracks grippy and reduce slickness, while earlier starts allow you to enjoy the wall bathed in soft morning light before the afternoon sun heats it up.

Aside from the technical climbing, the route rewards with an inspiring quietness that invites you to tune into the natural rhythms around you—birdsong offsets the approach, the wind carries scents of pine and wet stone, and low clouds often linger, pushing a cool freshness through the trees. This is a classic Squamish experience that balances accessible challenge with the opportunity to connect deeply with the granite, the forest, and your own progress on the rock.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally solid, watch for occasional loose flakes near the crack edges and double-check cam placements, especially in wider sections. The approach trail can be slick after rain, so wear sturdy footwear and take care entering the wall area.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb the shaded wall in cooler morning temperatures.

Wear well-fitted crack climbing shoes to maximize foot jams and edging.

Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to 3" and a set of nuts.

Approach along established trails marked with GPS at 49.7061, -123.1401 for easy navigation.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Finger, Fist and Hand sits comfortably in the intermediate trad realm, but its shifting crack sizes and technical placements demand focused technique. The grade feels true to form with a moderate crux moving from finger jams to solid hand and fist locks, similar in difficulty to nearby Bluffs routes but with a distinctly clean, crack-centered challenge.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes a full rack of cams up to 3 inches to protect the shifting widths of the crack system. Stoppers complement cam placements, but focus on secure cam placements within the finger and hand cracks for reliable protection.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
trad
single pitch
crack climbing
Squamish
granite