Finger Crack offers a compelling slice of traditional climbing set against the rugged backdrop of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch, 85-foot route invites climbers to navigate an initial 20-foot section of enjoyable finger crack climbing before transitioning into steadier, moderate terrain for the remainder of the ascent. At first glance, its name might suggest a pure finger crack challenge, but the real route unfolds more broadly—widening from a tight finger crack to hands and fists well before it steps away from continuous crack features.

The initial finger crack demands crisp hand jams and precise footwork, testing your ability to subtly convert power into position. As you gain height, the crack thins and then opens to a less featured face, requiring steady movement and careful route-finding. Here, the climb whispers caution—there’s a slight run-out on easier rock as you veer left around some scrappy short-needled firs and long-needled pines. These trees groove into the cliffside like natural guideposts, marking your path and adding a tactile element to the climb’s character.

The final stretch pushes you left once more, bringing you to the bolted anchors shared with the neighboring route "Open Book." Two bolts secure the top section, offering options to avoid any exposed traversing that might unsettle less confident climbers. An 85-foot rappel delivers a swift retreat, a necessary step given the route’s vertical position against the canyon’s natural drop.

With a moderate 5.8 rating, this climb offers the kind of challenge that is friendly enough for climbers sharpening their trad skills while still exercising caution and technique. Gear recommendations span from 0.5 to 3 inches in cam sizes—an essential range to protect the varied crack widths and face sections. A single bolt or additional bolts shared with "Open Book" up top provide confident anchors for the descent, making safety manageable without overbuilding.

The approach is straightforward, a short hike from the parking area within the St. Vrain Canyons known for their pine-streaked slopes and open skies. Expect a blend of forest floor and rock-strewn terrain, with enough elevation gain to warm muscles and the scent of pine resin thick in the air. Timing your climb for mid-morning offers a good mix of sun and shadow along the face, as the cliff’s eastern aspect catches the early light but cools off by midday.

Overall, Finger Crack is a gratifying route that balances natural movement with protective opportunities, inviting climbers to engage actively with varied crack widths, shifting foot placements, and the subtle negotiation of moderate terrain. For those seeking a classic single-pitch trad climb with a bit of heritage and character just outside Lyons, this is a crisp and concise choice.