"Fighting the Slime challenges climbers with its tight, exposed arete and sparse protection at Playhouse Rock. This brief but bold 5.9 R route demands precision gear placements and steady nerves, rewarding those ready to process the desert’s raw granite with a gritty, honest climb."
Fighting the Slime offers a gritty, focused experience on one of Joshua Tree's less-traveled faces. This single-pitch climb demands precision and mental grit as it ascends a narrow arete tightly wedged between Psycho Groove and I'm So Embarrassed For You. The rock here is textured with crisp friction points, yet the route’s defining challenge lies in its sparse protection, especially through the lower crux section where placements are scarce and often marginal. As you tackle the lower moves, you'll feel the quiet tension of the climb pressing in—each hold demanding commitment and trust in your footwork.
After surmounting the initial strenuous stretch, the route trends left at a steep headwall, easing into the more moderate finish shared with Curtain Call (rated 5.6). This blending of pitches requires a comfortable balance between technical climbing and route-finding, with a subtle shift in rhythm from cautious trust to steady progression. The rock’s surface bears the subtle rub of countless attempts, hinting at the climb's character as a test of nerve against Joshua Tree’s famously unforgiving desert granite.
The route’s raw nature makes it a compelling candidate for top-roping, especially for those wanting to explore the sequence and movement with a safer margin. The protection here really calls for a light rack up to 2 inches, but expect to maneuver through sections where placements are thin and at times unreliable—this is not a climb where casual runners will suffice. The commitment involved in the moves demands solid skills in gear placement and a clear head, reinforcing the climb's tough but honest reputation.
Base yourself near Lost Horse, where the desert’s stark beauty frames the climb with sweeping views of Joshua Tree’s rugged ridges and sprawling boulders. Approaches here reward alertness, as sandy trails weave through scrub and wind-carved rock formations. Plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat and to enjoy the angled shadows that give extra definition to the face’s subtle holds.
Fighting the Slime isn’t for climbers chasing flashy grades or bolted security—it calls for a pragmatic, no-nonsense approach to trad climbing with a readiness to engage with the tactile, raw granite. Proper footwear with sticky rubber and a light rack will set you up for success. Hydration and sun protection are critical given the sparse shade and arid desert air. With attentive preparation, this route delivers a sharp taste of Joshua Tree’s classic exposure and bold climbing ethos.
Gear placements become particularly thin on the lower section, increasing the risk factor. Exercise caution and consider top-roping if unsure about lead falls. Also, watch for loose debris on the ledges and be aware of the desert sun exposure during peak hours.
Approach via Lost Horse trailhead and plan for a 20-30 minute walk over sandy, uneven terrain.
Early mornings or late afternoons provide the best light and cooler temperatures for climbing.
Bring sticky-soled shoes to handle the finely textured desert granite.
Top-roping is recommended for less experienced climbers due to the low protection at the crux.
A light trad rack up to 2 inches suffices for protection, though the lower crux section offers sparse, tenuous placements that require careful selection and placement skill.
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