Fidget at House of Cards: Two-Pitch Sport Climbing Adventure in Bow Valley

Canmore, Alberta Canada
multi-pitch
sport
sandstone
technical moves
5.10c
accessible
Bow Valley
cleared anchors
Length: 145 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Fidget
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fidget delivers a solid two-pitch sport climbing experience blending easy beginnings with a challenging 5.10c finish. Situated in Alberta's Bow Valley, this route offers technical moves on excellent sandstone, perfect for climbers ready to step up their game."

Fidget at House of Cards: Two-Pitch Sport Climbing Adventure in Bow Valley

Fidget is a dynamic two-pitch sport climb threading through the rugged sandstone faces of House of Cards, right in the heart of Bow Valley, Alberta. The route opens with a steady introduction, easing you into the rhythm on its first pitch, known as Slowpoke. Here, a gentle leftward traverse around a distinctive brown streak guides you into a shallow dihedral. The stone is solid, characterized by textured, weathered rock that invites careful footwork and deliberate hand placements. This pitch moves with a comfortable 5.8 rating, perfect for ramping up confidence as you ascend to a small, well-placed ledge and anchor station poised for transition.

The second pitch, dubbed Fidget, is where the climb truly sharpens. Rated at 5.10c, this section demands focus and power as you negotiate a maze of pockets, crimps, and subtle jugs. The rock feels alive here, rugged and tactile under your fingers, with enough variation to keep both technical and athletic climbers thoroughly engaged. Movement requires precise foot placements and controlled strength, pushing you into advanced sequences that test balance and body positioning. Bolted securely with 19 anchors along the entire route, protection is reliable, ensuring peace of mind as you clip through each pitch.

Accessing the base of Fidget involves climbing the first pitch and then belaying from a mid-pitch anchor, making it essential to be comfortable managing long pitches and hauling gear. Descending is straightforward: double rope lowers from the anchors first to the midpoint, then to the ground, or by downclimbing if you prefer a more direct exit. The approach to House of Cards is short but can be uneven, with loose rock patches requiring steady footing.

This route stands out in Bow Valley’s climbing scene as a balanced experience—beginner-intermediate climbers build their skills and strengthen movement on the first pitch, while the second pitch challenges with technical sequences. The natural setting enhances the climb: wind rustles through nearby shrubbery, cool mountain air invigorates the senses, and occasional calls from local wildlife mark the serene backdrop. While not the tallest or most imposing, Fidget offers an accessible yet satisfying taste of Alberta’s climbing potential.

For those planning a day here, timing your climb mid-morning or late afternoon can offer cooler temperatures and avoid the direct glare of the sun on the east-facing wall. Essential gear includes a standard sport rack and a rope suitable for two pitches. Ensure hydration and layered clothing as weather in the valley can shift quickly. Whether you're honing sport climbing skills or searching for a challenging afternoon ascent, Fidget provides a practical and engaging route in a scenic, approachable setting.

Climber Safety

While bolts and anchors are solid, the approach contains loose footing and occasional unstable scree patches. Take care during descent to avoid slipping, and double-check all anchors before lowering. Seasonal wetness may make some sections slick—caution on rainy or icy days is advised.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length145 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail can be loose—wear sturdy, grippy shoes for the walk-in.

Start the climb mid-morning to catch cooler wall temps and avoid glare.

Carry enough water especially during summer as the area lacks shaded rest spots.

Descending via double rope lowers requires good communication with your belayer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Fidget presents a distinctly sharper challenge on its second pitch after a moderate 5.8 first pitch. The rating feels fair, with a particular crux that demands precise body positioning and finger strength. In comparison to other Bow Valley routes, it sits squarely in the intermediate-to-advanced range and offers a well-defined step up without pushing into the elite difficulty bracket.

Gear Requirements

The climb is fully bolted with 19 bolts culminating at the anchor, requiring a standard sport climbing rack. A rope capable of managing two pitches is necessary, and a set of quickdraws will cover all protection points.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Fidget and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

multi-pitch
sport
sandstone
technical moves
5.10c
accessible
Bow Valley
cleared anchors