"Femp is a crack-focused trad climb on Lumpy Ridge’s J-Crack slab that blends technical face climbing with sustained crack pitches. Offering multiple options on the longest pitch and reliable granite, it challenges both gear placements and climbing finesse just outside Estes Park."
Femp presents a compelling climb for trad enthusiasts seeking a blend of crack technique and precise face moves, carved into the rugged expanse of Lumpy Ridge within Colorado’s Estes Park Valley. Beginning roughly 100 feet above the ground on a weathered ledge, this route stakes claim to a right-hand crack line on the J-Crack slab, standing apart from its neighbor by a significant distance. Navigating here means passing landmarks such as Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, feeling the granite close around you as the trail dips past the Cavity, an immense crystalline void that holds a lone tree and the climb’s inviting thin left-facing corner.
The initial pitch nudges you into a mellow 5.2 corner to the right or, for those eager to test their edge, the Cavity corner at an intense 5.10. Both provide entry to a solid belay station beneath the main crack. From that foothold, the second pitch unfolds as a full-length crack climb, punctuated by a couple of critical moments: a suspicious pin where the crack momentarily disappears, demanding careful gear judgment, followed by a slender corner at the pitch’s top that requires delicate precision. Above this, the belay sits watchful, prepared for the complexities ahead.
On the third pitch, the route fans into a variety of pathways. You might traverse left along an easy ramp adjoining J-Crack, gaining access to the Cave area, or opt for a more technical ascent through an apexed 5.7 roof that leads to a slab and subsequently a flaky, slightly leaning chimney marking the ultimate approach to descent. Alternatively, climbers can challenge themselves by following "Hemp," a more demanding overhanging left-facing corner rated 5.10, before converging again onto the route’s upper stretches. The final option involves a traverse right into a tight 5.9+ crack leading beneath a lengthy reddish roof band, negotiating a wedged flake to rejoin other finish variations.
Safety and preparation are integral here. The rock, consistent but sometimes thin, rewards thoughtful placements — carrying extra camming sizes from #3 to 3.5 Friends will secure your progress through the dead spots, while smaller gear is essential at the crux of the lead pitches. The adventurous spirit that brought you to the crag will be tested in both crack jams and sustained face moves, but the quality granite and the expansive views of Estes Park valley make every move memorable.
Approaching Femp involves a moderate hike through Lumpy Ridge’s distinctive terrain. As you cross landmarks like Pear Buttress and Cavity, keep your focus on the well-marked trail and be prepared for a brief walk in mixed rock and dirt surfaces. The climb’s early start on the ledge offers a solid base for your pitches, but be ready for varied sun and shade conditions depending on the time of day.
Descending generally follows a straightforward walk-off after the final pitch, but attention is needed in navigating loose sections and finding the correct trails back toward the parking area. Carrying a topo or GPS device is advised, especially for first-timers. When you’re on the wall, the granite seems to breathe around you, the crevices inviting grip even as the wind cools and the valley stretches below.
Femp is not only a test of climbing skill but also an invitation to engage with one of Colorado’s iconic granite faces. Its combination of crack climbing and face moves offers a rewarding journey for climbers ready to earn their view and trust their gear judgment amid this storied alpine setting.
Pay close attention to the condition of the pin placements on pitch two’s crux, and be aware that some sections of the crack thin or flare, requiring confident gear judgment. The approach includes some loose rock areas where footing demands caution, especially when descending.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and better grip on the granite slabs.
Carry a detailed topo or GPS to navigate the approach and descent trails safely.
Inspect suspect pins carefully before weighting, especially on the crux pitch.
Bring a range of cams including extra sizes from #3 to 3.5 for proper protection.
Extra camming devices in sizes #3 to 3.5 are essential for protecting dead sections of the crack, paired with smaller gear for delicate placements near the upper cruxes.
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