"Felsic offers a sustained 160-foot sport climb on Dozier Dome with a combination of subtle knobs, friction, and hand crack moves. Perfect for climbers looking to blend solid bolt protection with the option for small cams in an iconic alpine setting."
Felsic traces a bold, left-leaning dike that carves its way upward on the face of Dozier Dome, offering climbers a focused challenge within the heart of Yosemite National Park’s Tuolumne Meadows. This single-pitch sport climb extends over 160 feet, presenting a sustained run at the 5.8 to 5.9 level. The route shares its opening four bolts with the adjacent climb "Cheetos and Everclear," establishing a common access thread before peeling off into a steady rhythm of small knobs, friction holds, and a handful of hand crack moves that demand careful technique over brute strength. Each move feels deliberate; the rock, granite forged by time, presses against your fingers and feet, giving tactile feedback that rewards precision and patience.
Though moderate in grade, Felsic requires focus—its holds are subtle, and the seam you follow demands awareness to spot the best placements. The crack feels alive here, as if inviting you to test the fit of your hand-sized cams, offering a rare opportunity to supplement the otherwise bolt-protected line with natural gear. For those comfortable with this grade, the climb embodies straightforward sport climbing with a slight adventurous edge thanks to its optional small cam placements and the ledge-based belay anchors.
Arriving at the base, you are greeted by the sprawling granite amphitheater of Dozier Dome, its sun-bleached surfaces glowing warm under the mid-morning light. The approach itself is a pleasant walk from the Tuolumne Meadows campgrounds, giving enough time to settle into the granite’s rhythm before your hands touch rock. Dozier’s location off the highway provides an accessible taste of Yosemite’s alpine granite—a few miles from the meadows’ broad grassy stretches, yet already steeped in the raw character of high-country climbing.
Careful preparation is essential. Eleven draws cover the route’s bolts, with two fixed chains securing the top belay. A pair of 1-2 inch cams rounds out your rack nicely, for placements tucked within the crack and to back up the belay. The rock’s texture offers decent friction, but light smearing requires attentive footwork, especially when the holds taper to small knobs. Early arrivals catch the climb dappled in morning sun, while the afternoon cools the face nicely, making thermal management simple during warmer months.
Felsic embodies a balanced encounter with Yosemite’s Tuolumne granite: approachable yet engaging, steady but never dull. It’s the ideal climb for those seeking to sharpen their sport climbing fundamentals in a classic setting, with just a whisper of trad-style gear on a largely bolted route. Whether you’re rounding out a day in the meadows or chasing consistent hand crack movement, this route deserves a spot on your itinerary.
While bolt protection is reliable, the spacing widens around the midsection where small cams can be placed; ensure solid placements to reduce fall factors. The ledge at the top requires secure belay anchors and attentive rope management. Watch for slick patches in wet conditions post-rain.
Plan to start early to catch morning sun on Dozier Dome's face for optimal grip.
Bring a couple of small cams (1-2 inch) to back up the minimal natural protection and belay anchor.
Pay close attention to foot placement on the friction slabs; subtle knobs and smears demand precision.
The approach is a moderate walk from Tuolumne Meadows campground—allow 15-20 minutes.
Carry 11 quickdraws to clip the bolts, with the addition of small (1-2 inch) cams recommended for securing a natural placement halfway up and for a safe belay on the ledge. Fixed chains anchor the top belay.
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