"Fellation offers an 80-foot traditional crack climb on solid granite with trusted protection options at Lac Long. Its precise jams and technical moves make it a must-try for dedicated crack climbers seeking a reliable challenge within Quebec’s Central Area."
Lac Long’s rugged landscape in Quebec unveils a powerful traditional climb known simply as Fellation. This route stands out through a commanding crack that carves its way between two imposing blocks, sitting slightly to the right of the well-known Libido climb. From the moment you step onto the approach trail, the granite’s coarse texture and the dense boreal forest surroundings hint at the challenge ahead. The climb spans 80 feet, demanding focused technique and sturdy gear placements along a clear vertical line that tests finger strength and mental grit.
Fellation delivers a classic crack experience with varied jamming sequences and a distinctly technical rhythm. The crack itself offers natural protection opportunities enhanced by strategically placed glue-ins, making gear placement a key part of the puzzle. Climbers will find this route particularly rewarding in late spring to early fall when dry conditions prevail. With a 5.10d rating, this climb pushes well beyond beginner territory, requiring solid crack climbing fundamentals and the confidence to commit on steeper sections.
The approach involves a straightforward trek from the Lac Long central area, crossing mixed forest terrain and uneven rocky paths that demand good footwork and steady pacing. The setting is visually arresting, where quiet forest whispers contrast the sharp scrape of rock under climbing shoes. At the top, panoramic views of rolling hills and the distant St. Lawrence River remind you why this climb remains a favorite among Quebec’s traditional climbing community.
Essential gear includes a standard rack of cams tailored to crack widths encountered here, paired with shoulders and nuts for backup. Glue-in placements make certain spots more secure, but don’t rely solely on fixed gear—natural protection remains critical. Climbers should hydrate well during the approach and consider starting early in the day to avoid afternoon heat and maximize traction.
Overall, Fellation is a high-value entry for crack enthusiasts looking to sharpen their skills on solid granite in a quiet and less crowded area of Quebec. It invites reflection on movement and protection strategy while delivering the satisfaction of conquering a true classic route in one pitch.
Though glue-in protection is available, placements rely heavily on traditional gear, so vet your rack carefully and be cautious of any loose blocks near the crack. The climb’s exposure calls for confident rope management and vigilance on both approach and descent trails due to uneven terrain.
Approach early in the morning to beat afternoon heat and maintain dry rock conditions.
Bring a standard crack rack emphasizing cams in the 0.3 to 2-inch range.
Check weather forecasts carefully; wet granite will make protection placements tricky.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes and carry extra tape for finger protection on sharp edges.
A comprehensive trad rack focusing on midsize cams and nuts is essential, supplemented by glue-in bolts that provide added security on the route’s key moves. Nail your placements to manage the sustained 5.10d difficulty confidently.
Upload your photos of Fellation and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.