5.10a, Sport
Bishop
California ,United States
"Feldspar Fixer offers a two-pitch sport climb along a striking arete just above Delta Wall. It challenges climbers with a short, sharp crux on the first pitch and fun sequences on the second, all set within Pine Creek Canyon’s rugged Eastern Sierra environment."
Feldspar Fixer sits at the far left edge of Uptown Rock’s Lower Tier, offering climbers a focused two-pitch outing with a mix of technical moves and rewarding positions. The route begins with the first pitch tracing an exposed arete that runs just above the well-known Delta Wall. This pitch features steady clipping on 13 bolts and delivers a consistent 5.10a challenge, with a short, well-defined crux near the third bolt. The rock feels solid underfoot and hand, inviting steady movement with confident footwork, while the arete’s edge adds an element of openness that freshens the experience.
After reaching the anchor about three-quarters of the way up, transitioning to pitch two reveals a fresh rhythm paced by just four bolts. Though shorter, this pitch contains unexpectedly playful sequences that keep the climber engaged, making the ascent feel dynamic and approachable.
Climbing Feldspar Fixer means moving through the distinctive high-desert character of Pine Creek Canyon. The air often carries a mix of dry warmth and breeze, and the wide Sierra vistas beyond remind you that you’re perched in a solid chunk of the Eastern Sierra’s climbing heritage. The rock faces sunlit angles in the morning, but the route’s western exposure means afternoon sun warms the holds, making early starts the best choice to avoid overheating.
From a practical standpoint, gear demands are straightforward since the route is fully bolted for sport. The bolting pattern keeps clipping smooth but also fuels the climb’s rhythm, encouraging relaxed yet focused movement. Given the route’s moderate length at 235 feet split into two pitches, it’s a great option for a half-day session, allowing time to soak in the views and refine technique without rushing.
Approach to Uptown Rock is accessible via Pine Creek Canyon trailhead parking. The walk-in is a short, steady hike through classic Sierran scrub and occasional pinyon pine stands, offering a gentle buildup before the climb. Being on the canyon’s edge offers some soundscape variety—birds in the brush below and the occasional rustle of wind interacting with the stone.
If you’ve climbed in the Bishop Area before, Feldspar Fixer compares favorably with other routes of similar grade but stands out for its straightforward protection and the interesting arete exposure. It’s an excellent mid-grade sport climb that balances technical interest with accessibility, making it suitable for climbers looking to push into 5.10a territory without committing to long, runout routes.
For those planning a trip here, bring water, dress in layers to handle the local microclimate shifts, and consider early morning starts to catch the rock at its best temperature. While the route’s bolts provide good security, standard caution on the approach and belay transitions is advised due to some exposed ledges nearby. Overall, Feldspar Fixer is a solid, satisfying addition to the Lower Tier lineup that rewards climbers who value quality moves in a scenic location.
Watch your footing during the approach to the lower tier as loose scree can shift. On the climb, stay attentive around ledges near the anchor to avoid slips. Afternoon sun can make holds slick with heat, so plan accordingly to reduce dehyrdation and hold fragility.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.
Bring layers as canyon temperatures can shift quickly in morning and evening.
Use a 60m rope to safely manage the two pitches and rappel descent.
Check local parking signs at Pine Creek Canyon trailhead to avoid restrictions.
The route is fully bolted with 13 bolts on pitch one and 4 bolts on pitch two, requiring only a sport climbing rack. The clip spacing supports fluid climbing and offers reliable protection throughout. No trad gear necessary.
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