HomeClimbingFeeling Mary

Feeling Mary: A Steady Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad crack
traverse
multi-pitch
desert climb
Joshua Tree
ledges
moderate crux
Length: 210 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Feeling Mary
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Feeling Mary offers a solid two-pitch trad climb in Joshua Tree's Rattlesnake Canyon, weaving crack systems and tricky traverses amid stark desert surroundings. Perfect for trad climbers ready to finesse gear placement and technique in a quiet, rugged setting."

Feeling Mary: A Steady Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Feeling Mary offers a firm, engaging trad climb tucked into the craggy fingers of Rattlesnake Canyon within Joshua Tree National Park. The route begins along the right flank of a leaning ramp and pillar formation, a striking silhouette warmed by the desert sun. Your hands embrace cracks that demand precise jamming techniques, driving upward to a hidden alcove beneath a stout roof. From there, you face a choice: exit left or tackle the roof directly, both moves offering a moderate 5.8 challenge before leading into a delicate traverse along thin horizontal cracks. The traverse demands a measured balance and focus, the rock’s subtle texture pressing against fingertips as you inch across.

Perched on a sloping ledge, you'll find a dead Joshua Tree lodged in the crack to your right—an unusual natural feature framing the belay station and reminding you of the desert’s quiet insistence to endure. The second pitch climbs steadily up rightward cracks that require careful lieback and stemming. Passing a single bolt that marks a slight crux at 5.10-, you continue upward through featured cracks that test both strength and finesse. The climb covers about 210 feet over two pitches, inviting a rhythm that balances body tension and thoughtful footwork.

Approach is straightforward, navigating the rugged, sandy trails of Upper Dodge City before entering the narrower, more varied terrain of Rattlesnake Canyon. The desert air carries a dry warmth, punctuated by the occasional caw of a distant raven or the whisper of wind through brittle brush. This route favors mid-morning to early afternoon ascents, as the face soaks up sunlight but remains protected enough to avoid overheating.

Protection calls for a standard rack extending up to 3 inches, providing enough versatility for the sustained crack climbing and the traverse sections. Expect to find natural placements aplenty, though some may challenge you to trust smaller nuts or cams for security. The rock is generally solid but check for loose flakes around the belay ledge.

Feeling Mary fits well for trad climbers seeking steady technical moves combined with a touch of desert character. It might not dazzle with extreme difficulty, but it demands attention to movement and gear placement. Thoughtful planning and steady pacing will reward your effort with clear views of Indian Cove’s rugged skyline, a quiet reminder of why Joshua Tree remains a favored destination for desert alpinists and traditionalists alike.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of loose flakes around the belay ledge, especially near the dead Joshua Tree wedged in the crack. The ledge slants, requiring careful footing. Also, the traverse demands solid footwork—slips here can leave you stretched out awkwardly above gear. Desert heat can intensify dehydration risks; plan hydration accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length210 feet

Local Tips

Start the approach early to avoid afternoon heat in exposed sections.

Watch for loose rock near the belay ledge, especially around the dead Joshua Tree wedge.

Use sticky-soled shoes for better grip on thin crack traverses.

Carry plenty of water—desert sun dries you out faster than expected.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels moderately stiff, mainly due to the thin horizontal traverse and the lieback crack on the second pitch. The crux bolt signals a technical move but is balanced by ample natural rests and gear placements. Compared to other Joshua Tree trad lines, Feeling Mary offers a solid challenge without pushing into prolonged hard climbing, suited for climbers comfortable on moderate cracks and delicate moves.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack to 3 inches covers all protection needs. Expect solid jams in cracks with some smaller placements before and after the traverse. One bolt on the second pitch marks a crux at 5.10-, but natural gear remains key throughout.

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Tags

trad crack
traverse
multi-pitch
desert climb
Joshua Tree
ledges
moderate crux