"Fecophilia’s standout first pitch offers a tense 5.9 slab climb that demands precise footwork and spot-on protection. Beyond that, expect lichen-covered, runout pitches that test your nerves and gear skills high above Yosemite Valley’s northern reaches."
Located on the rugged north side of Yosemite Valley, Fecophilia offers a gritty trad experience on Manure Pile Buttress, also known as Ranger Rock. This route is best known for its compelling first pitch, where stamina and precision meet the demands of thin slab climbing. Starting on a polished 5.9 slab, the climb quickly eases into 5.8 terrain, drawing you upwards with cautious moves on rock that tests your focus. The bolt at about 25 feet often encourages climbers to toprope this initial section, making it accessible without risking a ground fall. Beyond this, however, the route becomes noticeably more committing. The subsequent pitches stretch out over runout terrain, carpeted with lichen and pockets of vegetation that obscure holds and challenge your gear placements. Rock quality here is inconsistent; some holds show signs of weakness and may break unexpectedly, urging climbers to move deliberately and place protection judiciously.
With four pitches covering roughly 400 feet of climbing, Fecophilia demands both technical skill and mental resolve. Gear placements are limited and often thin, with protection sized up to 1.5 inches fitting the route’s narrow cracks and shallow features. This means you'll rely on precise placements rather than volume, and expect significant runout sections that raise the stakes. The route’s remote feeling paired with its tricky protection and rock conditions make it a testpiece for those comfortable on adventurous trad terrain.
Located within Yosemite National Park, the climb is part of a larger wall known for its sweeping views of the valley below and the rugged profile of the rock face. The approach is straightforward but requires attention to local conditions and timing. Climbers should plan their ascent for mornings or early afternoons during cooler seasons to avoid overheating on the sun-exposed slab. Descending involves careful route-finding and the use of established rappel stations, but caution is warranted as the rock can be slick with moss or loose in spots.
Accessing Manure Pile Buttress begins at the El Cap Picnic Area, following an unmarked trail northward into a forested hillside that opens suddenly to exposed rock faces. The moderate approach is about 20 minutes, with mixed terrain of dirt paths and loose scree offering enough challenge to get your heart pumping before the climb even begins. Water is scarce along the approach, so pack accordingly and wear sturdy boots with good grip for scrambling sections.
While Fecophilia is not the most popular climb in Yosemite, those who seek a route away from busy walls will find its raw quality and modest ratings rewarding. The climb doesn’t suffer from inflated stars—the 5.9 R rating reflects genuine risk and the need for confident gear placements and route-finding. This is a climb that favors players who thrive on a bit of unpredictability and are prepared to back up their moves with solid protection skills and calm decision-making.
In sum, Fecophilia offers a demanding trad route where the rock dares your commitment and the slab tests your technique. It’s a perfect morning objective for experienced trad climbers eager to explore a less-traveled side of Yosemite’s vast climbing landscape while honing mental toughness and gear savvy.
Be cautious of loose rock, especially on the upper pitches where lichen and vegetation hide fragile holds. The runout sections increase risk, so only attempt if confident in route-finding and protection placement. Consider wearing a helmet to guard against potential rockfall.
Toprope the first pitch to reduce ground-fall risk since the bolt is high off the deck.
Watch for loose holds and breaking rock beyond the first pitch; move deliberately.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the slab and increasing slip risks.
Carry extra water as there is no reliable source along the approach or route.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to 1.5 inches, plus runners for extending gear placements. Protection is sparse and often tricky to place firmly, so plan for runout sections and prioritize solid anchor building.
Upload your photos of Fecophilia and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.