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Fear of Flying at El Potrero Chico: A Vertical Test of Precision and Power

Monterrey, Nuevo Leon Mexico
crimps
technical
vertical
sport
El Potrero Chico
desert
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fear of Flying
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fear of Flying on Club Mex Wall offers sustained, technical climbing on a vertical limestone face. Its relentless crimps and sidepulls demand finger strength and steady focus, perfect for climbers ready to push their limits in El Potrero Chico’s stark desert setting."

Fear of Flying at El Potrero Chico: A Vertical Test of Precision and Power

Perched on the sheer limestone face of Club Mex Wall within the rugged terrain of El Potrero Chico, Fear of Flying is a sport climb that demands both finger strength and mental grit. From the moment you pull onto the wall, the route sets a tone of continuous engagement with its vertical pitch carved into a fine-grained face marked by subtle edges and tiny crimps. The approach begins with a moderate low-angle section graded around 5.10+, offering a few moves to warm up your technique while shifting slightly rightward along the rock. This early traverse is a mental puzzle that encourages steady footwork and balance, pushing climbers into a rhythm before the route pulls vertical.

A brief respite comes at a ledge of generous jugs just below a pronounced headwall. It’s here where you catch your breath and prepare to tackle the pumpy crux ahead. The upper headwall climbs straighter now, but don’t be fooled — the holds shrink and the climbing tightens into sustained sequences of crimps and sidepulls, compelling you to stay sharp and deliberate. Every move requires precision, as the line never offers a true rest until you near the anchors. Just before the top, the angle eases, granting a bit of relief and even the chance to experience some brief, light air-time—catch that moment before reaching the bolts.

Protection on Fear of Flying relies primarily on 12 bolts placed strategically along the 100-foot pitch. While guidebooks mention 12, some climbers note the bolt count may vary slightly, reinforcing the need to stay focused and prepare for potential falls. This climb’s name isn’t just a clever label — it’s a nod to the mental challenge of committing to small holds over vertical terrain where a fall could be exciting. The rock feels solid, typical of El Potrero Chico’s limestone, but expect certain sections where edges are sharp and the grips demand clean fingertips.

Located in Nuevo Leon, Northern Mexico, this route is part of the vibrant El Potrero Chico climbing area, a globally known destination that combines steep limestone walls with desert climate and breathtaking views. The approach to Club Mex Wall is relatively straightforward, leading climbers through dry, dusty trails with scattered desert vegetation. A climb like Fear of Flying fits best when temperatures are cooler in the fall through spring, as the wall’s southeast aspect catches sun through much of the day, making summer sends less comfortable.

For gear, stick to a sport rack and prepare your mind for a route that tests technical ability without relief—think tenacious fingerlocks and controlled breathing. The anchors offer secure top-rope or rappel options, making descent smooth with a single rappel. The setting here is classic El Potrero Chico: sharp rock, moderate exposure, and a climbing community spirit that values pushing limits with respect and preparation.

Whether you’re eyeing this pitch to polish your 5.12a skills or seeking a new challenge in one of North America’s premier limestone crags, Fear of Flying offers an intense, sustained climb that rewards tactical patience and precise footwork. Make sure your shoes are snug, fingers taped if needed, and your mind clear; this wall isn’t forgiving but delivers a pure vertical puzzle that will leave your arms burning and your confidence soaring.

Climber Safety

Although protection is generally reliable, some bolts may be spaced with longer gaps, so be prepared for potential falls. The route’s vertical nature means falls can be dynamic. Also, keep an eye on sharp edge holds that can be tough on fingers and skin.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on this southeast-facing wall.

Use tape on fingers to protect skin from continuous crimping.

Bring plenty of water—the desert air dries your grip quickly.

Double-check bolt conditions and be ready for some runouts given slight discrepancies in bolt count.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating on Fear of Flying feels accurate for the sustained nature of the climb; there’s no soft crux, but a series of moderately difficult moves that shorten your margin for error. It demands solid endurance on crimps and technical footwork, making it comparable to other hard single-pitch climbs in El Potrero Chico but with more emphasis on precision than raw power.

Gear Requirements

The route features approximately 12 bolts to anchors, offering solid protection but be prepared for occasional runouts. Draws and a sport rack are essential; attention to clip placement is advised to avoid rope drag on the slightly meandering line.

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Tags

crimps
technical
vertical
sport
El Potrero Chico
desert