HomeClimbingFear of a Curved Planet

Fear of a Curved Planet

Hidalgo, Mexico
thin face
technical crimps
sport climbing
multi-pitch
sun-exposed
desert climbing
Length: 200 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Fear of a Curved Planet
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fear of a Curved Planet offers a focused test of delicate face climbing on the Mota Wall, with two pitches that blend sharp technical moves and a rewarding, exposed finish. Ideal for climbers stepping into sustained 5.12 sport routes in the sunlit deserts of El Potrero Chico."

Fear of a Curved Planet

Fear of a Curved Planet challenges climbers with its lean, technical face rising sharply on the Mota Wall at El Potrero Chico. This two-pitch sport route demands precision and strength, rewarding those who favor controlled movement on small, positive crimps. The first pitch begins with a slabby approach to the high first bolt, immediately testing footwork and balance before threading up and right across a sequence of sharp but manageable holds. The rock's texture offers reliable friction, though the climbs remain thin and require committed body positioning. As the second pitch unfolds, the intensity eases, guiding climbers with more moderate moves across a smoother headwall that feels blank at first glance but offers subtle features for steady progress.

Situated within the rugged expanses of Northern Mexico, the Mota Wall impresses with its vertical exposure and clear desert skies, framing an atmosphere that both invites and challenges. The area’s dry air and sun-drenched walls demand careful timing—starting early in the morning to avoid peak heat is ideal, as the south-facing walls warm quickly. Access is straightforward: a roughly 20-minute descent from the main trailhead leads to the base, trekking across solid rock and sparse vegetation. Climbers should bring reliable rubber for optimum grip, as the holds reward finesse over brute strength.

Protection along Fear of a Curved Planet consists solely of bolts, spaced to accommodate confident clipping but allowing brief moments where focus on foot placement is vital. The route's 200-foot span barely feels long, though the sustained technical sequence on pitch one compounds effort. For those aiming to sharpen lead climbing skills or break into harder sport routes, it offers a measured step up without overwhelming exposure or runouts.

El Potrero Chico itself is a climbing hotspot, attracting enthusiasts worldwide drawn by its consistent limestone and breadth of routes. Beyond the climb, the surrounding desert air hums with desert wildlife and wind, a subtle reminder of the wild landscape embracing this granite midsection. After topping out, the descent is a controlled rappel down a series of fixed anchors, offering clear lines back to the ground. Avoid late-day climbs to sidestep cooling rock that can reduce friction, and do not underestimate the sun’s strength at elevation—hydrate well and wear sun protection.

This route stands as a compelling option for climbers eager to test their technique in a classic Mexican crag setting. The blend of physical demands and scenic openness makes Fear of a Curved Planet both a practical training ground and a memorable adventure with panoramic views that frame your effort in light and shadow.

Climber Safety

Although well protected with bolts, the spacing on the first pitch requires focused clipping and careful foot placement. Be cautious on the slab section before the first bolt, especially if conditions are dusty or the rock is hot. The rappel descent follows fixed anchors—double-check your setup before committing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the intense midday sun on the south-facing walls.

Hydrate thoroughly—the dry air can accelerate dehydration.

Wear sticky climbing shoes for optimal contact on small crimps.

Check fixed anchors before rapelling; familiarity with the descent improves safety.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.12a, Fear of a Curved Planet feels appropriately challenging with a stiff crux on pitch one that tests precision and body tension. While not overwhelming for climbers comfortable at this level, the route demands controlled footwork and forearm endurance. Compared to other Mota Wall routes, it leans slightly toward technical finesse rather than power, making it a valuable line for climbers focusing on balance and smooth movement.

Gear Requirements

Bolts protect the climb exclusively. Clip carefully on the steeper first pitch where spacing invites reading holds precisely. Bring gear suited for sport lines with solid rubber shoes to maximize grip on the thin crimps.

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Tags

thin face
technical crimps
sport climbing
multi-pitch
sun-exposed
desert climbing