"Fear No Evil challenges climbers with a compelling handcrack route in Boulder’s Flatirons. Just one pitch of 5.8 trad climbing blends technical moves over a bulge with a satisfying crack finish, framed by expansive mountain vistas."
Fear No Evil stands as the final challenge in the quartet of climbs referencing the Wise Monkeys at Devil’s Horns in Boulder’s iconic Flatirons. This single-pitch, 50-foot trad route starts with an inviting scramble that quickly puts you in touch with the rock. The approach is short but purposeful, leading you to a gnarled tree perched near a striking handcrack — your gateway to the ascent ahead.
The climb demands steady hands and solid footwork as you follow a sequence of cracks and flakes. Early moves test your technique over a compact bulge, where a yellow Camalot crux calls for deliberate stemming and jamming. Once past this obstacle, the route opens into a clean handcrack that carries you upward to a ledge-top belay. Here, a cordalette loop securing a large boulder offers a secure anchor, providing a moment to pause and catch your breath while taking in the classic Flatirons setting.
The descent is as much a part of the adventure as the climb itself. From the summit, head northward for a short scramble, then carefully navigate a zig-zag of exposed ledges and slabs that funnel you back down the north side. This return path is peppered with trees that can be used for rappelling if you prefer a safer exit. Either way, this descent requires attention and steady footing.
Fear No Evil offers a straightforward but engaging introduction to crack climbing in this renowned Boulder outcrop. The route's moderate 5.8 rating and accessible length make it an excellent choice for climbers looking to build confidence on trad gear. A standard rack including cams from small to 3.5 inches is necessary, with particular importance on the yellow Camalot protecting the crux. Expect clean rock with solid edges and few hidden surprises, but don’t underestimate the bulge — it’s the key to unlocking the climb.
Approaching the climb in the morning or late afternoon can provide the best light and temperature for cranking through the moves. The rock faces generally east, catching the warming sun early but offering shade by afternoon, which is a welcome relief on warmer days. This route sits within the broader Devil’s Horns area, known for its rugged charm and sweeping views that remind climbers they are part of a larger, wild world.
Before heading out, give thought to footwear that strikes a balance between comfort for the scramble and precision on crack jams. Hydration is a must — though the route itself is short, the boulderfield and approach can be deceptively dry. This climb’s mix of adventure, technical moves, and natural beauty invites climbers to engage fully—both body and mind—with the rock, making Fear No Evil a memorable addition to your Boulder climbing ledger.
Exercise caution on the scramble down the summit’s north side; the ledges and slabs are exposed with limited protection. Using slings on trees for rappelling can significantly reduce risk on the descent. Check the rock around the bulge for loose flakes before committing moves.
Approach the climb early or in late afternoon to avoid midday sun on the east-facing wall.
Wear climbing shoes with good toe precision to handle stemming and crack jams effectively.
Set slings on trees along the descent if you want to rappel instead of downclimbing loose slabs.
Hydrate before and bring water; the approach and scramble can leave you dry despite the short distance.
Bring a standard trad rack spanning small cams up to 3.5 inches, focusing on a yellow Camalot to protect the crux bulge. Slings and cordelette for anchors are recommended for secure belays and possible rappels.
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