"Farewell Transmission winds through a commanding overhanging dihedral at Shelf Road, blending bolted sport climbing with necessary trad techniques. Its engaging crack system and manageable 5.8 grade invite climbers to refine their skills on a varied and thoughtful limestone ascent."
Farewell Transmission roots itself in the heart of Shelf Road’s rugged landscape, stretching an 85-foot climb that demands both technique and focus. This bolted sport route is anything but straightforward — the overhanging dihedral carves a pronounced line up the wall, blending imposing verticality with an inviting crack system that rewards thoughtful gear placements. From the outset, climbers grapple with a yellow-hued corner, where hand jams mingle with a collection of deep pockets on the face to the left. These features provide ample opportunity to establish rhythm before the rock shifts color, darkening to a reddish-gray that hints at the route's growing complexity.
Navigating the change, a sequence of smooth rails and ledges on the right-hand face offers temporary reprieve, allowing a moment to recalibrate before tackling the heart of the dihedral itself. Here, the climb transforms into dynamic three-dimensional movement—these 60 feet are a playground of balance and power as you ascend the crack line. While bolted protection secures the passage, Farewell Transmission insists on some traditional climbing savvy: the crack allows for finger locks and jams, making it a hybrid experience that stretches beyond pure sport climbing.
The route culminates at a two-bolt anchor, marked by solid chains, delivering a satisfying conclusion for this moderately graded 5.8 endeavor. Unlike typical sport climbs that rely solely on fixed hardware, this climb asks for an understanding of crack techniques and gear placements to complement the bolts, enhancing both safety and efficiency.
Shelter and shade vary with the sun’s position, making afternoons particularly agreeable for climbing. The limestone’s texture holds well but can occasionally be slick near pockets, so precision footwork and secure handholds make a difference. The surrounding Shelf Road area offers stunning vistas of Canon City’s high desert, where pine stands punctuate the canyon rim.
This route suits climbers ready to bridge the gap between sport and trad styles, with a solid foundation of crack-climbing skills highly recommended. Approach times are reasonable, the trail well-marked yet rugged, rewarding those who come equipped with proper footwear, helmets, and hydration. Expect a steady, sustained effort rather than sharp bursts, and keep your rack stocked with standard cams and a moderate number of quickdraws.
For those seeking to stretch their climbing repertoire on rock that challenges both body and mind, Farewell Transmission provides an accessible yet compelling route that captures the character of Shelf Road without overwhelming newcomers. Its combination of bolted security and crack climbing finesse makes it a perfect primer for traditional skills nestled within a sport framework.
While the bolts provide good security, some sections require solid crack placements; looseness or slick pockets could raise risk if technique fails. Watch for occasional crumbly holds near the color change in the rock and ensure gear is placed precisely before committing to moves.
Start the climb with secure hand jams in the yellow corner to find stable footing early.
Use the rails and ledges on the right face to rest and plan your next moves through the dihedral.
Afternoon climbs offer optimal temperatures and shade from the sun.
Bring a mix of cams sized for finger cracks and quickdraws to adapt to varying protection needs.
The route relies on 8 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor with chains. Although primarily bolted, expect to supplement protection with trad gear in the crack. Standard cams and quickdraws are recommended to navigate the mix of face and crack moves safely.
Upload your photos of Farewell Transmission and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.