"Farewell to Arms is a focused 70-foot sport climb on gently overhanging rock in Welsford, New Brunswick. It offers precise face climbing with careful protection and a rewarding sense of exposure for those ready to engage the crux sequence early on."
Farewell to Arms offers a compact yet intense introduction to sport climbing on the Cochrane Lane Cliffs in Welsford, New Brunswick. This 70-foot route climbs a gently overhanging wall that demands focus and precision. Starting with a short face move to the right, climbers encounter a well-placed bolt protecting a delicate sequence that quickly leads to a solid stance—an essential moment for settling your nerves. While the initial moves feel moderate, the presence of an optional mid-sized cam between the first and second bolts adds a layer of tactical protection for those who want extra security.
The climb unfolds as a steady upward journey past bolts, where the wall’s subtle angled overhang tests your balance and endurance without overwhelming. The texture of the rock invites careful footwork, and the spacing of protection encourages thoughtful clipping. Above, a bolted anchor awaits to secure your final belay or lead hanging belay.
Located in a lesser-known pocket of New Brunswick’s climbing scene, the route’s setting is straightforward but rewarding. The cliff’s south-facing aspect catches ample sunlight, making mid-morning to mid-afternoon an ideal window for a climb free of damp rock. Access is approachable, with a short, lightly forested walk to the base, where the cliff rises sharply from gravel and low shrub.
For sport climbers venturing into this sector, Farewell to Arms blends the excitement of a technical face climb with attainable protection and a manageable length that fits well into a half-day outing. Staying hydrated and wearing sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will help manage the subtle holds and foot placements this climb demands. Given the potential consequences of a fall in the early sequence, a confident lead climber will appreciate both the challenge and the strategic gear options available.
In essence, this route serves as an engaging test of finesse and control on a clean rock face, surrounded by the quiet wilderness of Welsford. Its compact nature makes it a fine choice for experience-builders eager to refine sport climbing skills while soaking in the peaceful outdoors.
Falling early in the climb carries heightened risk due to the spacing between the first bolts and limited gear options. Ensure your lead is confident on delicate face climbing and consider placing the optional cam before committing to harder moves.
Approach the wall mid-morning to catch the sun drying any overnight moisture.
Bring a mid-sized cam to enhance protection in the lower section.
Wear climbing shoes with precise edging for optimal foot placement on the face.
Hydrate well; the climb is short but demands sustained focus on small holds.
The route is protected by bolts with an optional mid-sized cam placement between the first and second bolts. A bolted anchor tops out the climb. Climbers seeking extra security in the initial moves should bring a mid-sized cam.
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