HomeClimbingFarewell Angel

Farewell Angel: A Sport Climb Through Slate, Fingers, and Exposure

Lac du Cap, Quebec Canada
slab climbing
finger crack
exposed finish
arête
sport climbing
single pitch
Length: 115 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Farewell Angel
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Farewell Angel is a technical sport route covering 115 feet of engaging slate climbing in Lanaudière, Quebec. From precise slab moves to demanding finger crack jams and a thrilling exposed arête, this climb offers a varied, dynamic challenge for intermediate climbers."

Farewell Angel: A Sport Climb Through Slate, Fingers, and Exposure

Farewell Angel invites climbers to engage with a striking blend of delicate slab moves and technical finger crack sequences etched into the rugged rock face of Lanaudière, Quebec. This single-pitch, 115-foot route unfolds along a slate-dominated wall that tests balance and finesse right from the start with a series of slopers and crimps. The initial slab demands precise footwork and controlled body positioning, setting the tone for a climb where every hold counts. Transitioning swiftly from these slab moves, the rock quality shifts briefly to a less solid section, requiring attentive movement to maintain momentum without hesitation.

The heart of the route emerges in a tight dihedral, where hand jams and bridging techniques become essential. Here, the rock appears to lean in, challenging climbers to stabilize their bodies with calculated pressure. As you climb higher, the route guides you onto a knife-edge arête, which not only tests your climbing skill but places you in an exposed position that heightens awareness of the mountain’s raw verticality. The finger crack section follows, a defining feature that offers intense, technical finger lock sequences—if your fingers dare to dance inside the narrow fissure, you’ll find both challenge and satisfaction.

The final moves span a face with delicate holds before resolving onto an arête that pulls rightward, leading to a slightly exposed yet thrilling finish. From here, the anchors spread safely on bolted rings, providing secure belay points. This route is a compelling mix of movement styles—from slab and crack to arête—that keeps climbers engaged from bottom to top, all set within the rugged beauty of the D. Gendarmes area near Lac du Cap.

Approaching Farewell Angel involves a trek through quiet forest stretches, the scent of pine mixing with the earthy softness of the trail. The elevation gain is moderate, and the path remains straightforward, making it accessible for a range of climbers. Plan for moderate weather—early summer through autumn—when the granite cools enough to grip without slipping but the rock stays dry for reliable friction. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential here, especially to handle the slab’s subtle contours and the finger crack’s edges. Hydration is critical; bring enough water since the trail offers few refill points.

For climbers seeking a varied sport route that tests both technical prowess and mental composure amid striking natural setting, Farewell Angel is a worthy quest. Be prepared for careful foot placements, strategic use of hands, and the thrill of exposure that sharpens the senses at the release point.

Climber Safety

The slab at the start requires precise foot placement; a slip here could lead to a long fall before the protection catches. The exposed arête toward the top demands surefootedness and calm focus to avoid unplanned swinging or pendulum falls.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid warming rock on the slab section.

Bring sticky rubber shoes for improved grip on slopers and crimps.

Warm up on easier routes nearby to prepare finger strength for the tight crack.

Check weather forecasts; wet rock can make the slab section hazardous.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Farewell Angel offers a solid challenge with a crux involving technical finger jams and balance-dependent slab moves. The grade feels fair but expects some climbers to find the finger crack slightly harder than standard 10c sequences, making it a stamina and technique test similar to other local routes with mixed slab and crack styles.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 14 bolts and a solid bolted anchor system, Farewell Angel requires sport climbing gear focused on clipping efficiency and safe catching. No trad gear needed.

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Tags

slab climbing
finger crack
exposed finish
arête
sport climbing
single pitch