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Far Right Flake at School Rock

Running Springs, California United States
flake crack
layback
short approach
technical footwork
morning sun
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Far Right Flake
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Far Right Flake offers a sharp, technical layback climb on a narrow left-facing crack at School Rock’s quieter West Face. With an easy approach and secure protection options, this concise trad route sharpens your footwork and balance amidst San Bernardino’s rugged mountain environment."

Far Right Flake at School Rock

Far Right Flake stands quietly at the far edge of School Rock’s West Face, a slender, left-leaning flake and crack that invites climbers to test their technique with an awkward layback move. The approach is straightforward — a brief hike that moves easily through typical San Bernardino underbrush and rocky ground, delivering you swiftly to the base of the formation. This simplicity makes the climb’s effective length feel closer to 20 feet, trimming what might otherwise seem like a 40-foot route into a concentrated burst of movement and focus.

The rock itself is textured and firm, demanding precise footwork and steady hands as you work your way upward. The flake leans just enough to challenge your balance and requires a thoughtful hold sequence rather than brute force. Protection is straightforward but requires some forethought—gear placements up to 4 inches will keep you secure, though the crack’s shape might push your ability to find the best spots.

Set within the broader expanse of the San Bernardino Mountains near Running Springs, School Rock captures a distinct slice of Southern California climbing. This area, often overlooked for larger, more famous crags, offers a quiet setting and an intimate connection to the rock. The West Face faces generally northeast, catching morning sun and retreating into shade by early afternoon, making early climbing sessions ideal in warmer months.

Whether you're whisking through your warm-up routine or seeking a technical crimp and layback challenge, Far Right Flake carves out a practical, perfectly-sized route. It rewards patience and practiced technique, with very little approach hassle, making it a smart choice for climbers wanting focused movement without the fuss of a long hike.

When planning your visit, consider sturdy footwear to navigate loose rock on the approach path—the trail winds over uneven ground amid dry brush. Hydration is essential, especially in late spring and summer, when this mountain air dries quickly. The route’s one pitch is moderate but demands attention, a brief yet memorable test of sideways strength and balance.

Far Right Flake isn’t a grand expedition, but it embodies the satisfaction of climbing with direct connection and minimal distractions. It’s a hidden notch for those who value technical challenge and straightforward access, tucked in a mountain setting that pushes the landscape forward with rugged charm and open sky.

Climber Safety

While the approach is short, loose rocks can cause slips—proceed deliberately. Protection placements require care on the thinner flake, so double-check gear stability before committing to moves.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is short but involves loose rock—wear sturdy shoes for steady footing.

Morning starts are best to avoid afternoon heat as the wall shifts into shade.

Carry a rack including cams up to 4 inches for secure protection.

Hydrate thoroughly before and after climbing during warmer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straight 5.9, Far Right Flake sits comfortably at moderate difficulty. The grade feels accurate with its emphasis on technique more than raw power, featuring a cruxy layback move that tests body positioning. Compared to other local 5.9s, it leans toward a softer feel but demands clean movement to keep safe and fluid.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with protection placements up to 4 inches; optimal placement skills required to secure gear on the flake’s thinner crack.

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Tags

flake crack
layback
short approach
technical footwork
morning sun