"Far Left delivers a concise yet engaging single pitch on Boulder Canyon’s Short Cliff. Perfect for climbers refining their finger crack skills, this route offers straightforward protection and a peaceful forested backdrop, making it a dependable classic on Boulder’s trad circuit."
Far Left is a straightforward yet satisfying climb perched on Short Cliff, part of Boulder Canyon's familiar collection of cracks and exposed faces. This single-pitch route sits just to the right of a solitary tree branching out mid-wall, its proximity offering a subtle landmark as you size up the climb. The rock—solid and textured—presents four close-knit parallel cracks, with Far Left threading the climb’s finger crack zone at the bottom before broadening slightly into hand-sized placements near the top. It’s a classic test of delicate finger jams and precise footwork, rewarding steady pacing and an eye for gear.
Approaching the cliff is a brief but engaging walk along Boulder Canyon’s well-maintained paths, with the crisp mountain air hinting at alpine forests framing the area. The climb’s brief nature at one pitch makes it an ideal warm-up or a quick tick for those dialing in their crack climbing technique. Protection centers largely on small stoppers down low—tight finger cracks demand confidence in smaller cams and nuts—before transitioning to slightly larger hand-sized gear toward the finish. For those not ready to lead, setting a top rope here is hassle-free and encourages focus on movement over gear placement.
Sunlight generally bathes the wall mid-morning through mid-afternoon, creating drying, grippy conditions that come alive especially during cooler seasons. The climb’s exposure is moderate, allowing natural sounds from the surrounding forest—rustling leaves, distant bird calls—to blend with the scrape of rock and busy hands. The nearby tree provides some natural shade and a sense of quiet companionship as you work upward.
While Far Left is approachable, the crisp-edged finger cracks require neat technique and steady feet. It’s a climb that rewards measured enthusiasm and preparation: sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber, a rack emphasizing small to medium cams, and a helmet for the occasional loose flakes common in historic Boulder Canyon formations. Packing water for the approach and watching afternoon weather shifts remains essential, especially when summer storms sweep the Front Range.
Whether you’re returning to Boulder’s classic trad lines or stepping into hand jams for the first time, Far Left offers a direct, no-frills climb that sharpens the fundamentals. It’s an accessible slice of Colorado climbing history, framed by natural features that connect you to the mountain below and the open sky above. This route’s charm lies in its simplicity—clarity of movement, reliable gear options, and a peaceful setting make it a must-try for local climbers eager to blend technique with environment.
Loose rock and smaller flakes can collect near the base, so wearing a helmet is advisable. Stay alert during approach and watch for slick spots if the rock is damp after rain.
Arrive mid-morning for optimal sunlight and dry rock.
Bring a helmet; some loose flakes can be expected near the base.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize friction on the finger cracks.
Top roping is highly recommended for newcomers to this crack style.
A rack focused on small to medium nuts and cams works best here. Finger cracks dominate the start requiring smaller stoppers, with hand-sized placements available near the top. Top roping is quick and straightforward to set up.
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