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Fandango at Lover's Leap: A Trad Classic on East Wall

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
finger crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
granite
route finding
Length: 350 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Fandango
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fandango is a traditional two-pitch climb on Lover’s Leap’s East Wall, balancing technical finger cracks with light route-finding in a stunning granite setting. With crisp gear placements and a varied second pitch, it’s a must for trad climbers exploring the Sierra’s granite cliffs."

Fandango at Lover's Leap: A Trad Classic on East Wall

Fandango unfolds along the East Wall’s Main Formation at Lover’s Leap, a renowned spot carved into the granite cliffs of California’s Sierra Nevada. This two-pitch trad climb covers roughly 350 feet, offering a compelling mixture of technical finger cracks and route-finding challenges that keep climbers alert. The first pitch begins with a focused hand and finger crack system that demands precise placements and steady footwork. After this perfect seam of granite, the climb eases briefly into dike terrain before reaching the belay—the smooth granite offers a tactile variety that rewards clean gear and calm composure.

Pitch two shifts gears, wandering just right of the belay station before bending toward a defining left-angled dihedral. Navigation on this pitch isn’t straightforward—climbers need to watch their line closely, as the route meanders and offers multiple options. The granite remains solid and inviting but demands thoughtful movement and confident placement.

Gear requirements center on a standard rack extending up to 2.5 inches, with an emphasis on small cams and nuts to protect the finger crack sections safely. The first pitch is generally well-protected and may include fixed anchors, possibly bolts, easing the buildup of gear. The top of the route features pitons, a nod to the history embedded in these walls and a reminder that some old-school hardware still maintains its place here.

Approach is straightforward from the Highway 50 corridor near Lake Tahoe, a quick scramble from Lover’s Leap’s main trailhead that threads through forested passages and granite outcrops, awakening the senses to the fresh pine and the faint sound of water flowing nearby. This route appeals to climbers who value traditional climbing anchors, variable textures, and a touch of route-finding puzzle in serene yet exposed surroundings.

Because the climb faces east, morning light bathes its smooth faces, warming the granite just enough to invite early starts while avoiding the heat that develops in afternoon sun. Falling temperatures and snow arrive early in the season here, so late spring to early fall provides the best window for achieving a clean ascent.

Descent involves a straightforward rappel or a careful downclimb, with a recommended double-rope rappel from the anchors to reach the base safely. Loose rock and occasional slick patches mean attentiveness remains paramount even after the final clip.

With 34 votes averaging three stars, Fandango earns respect as a solid trad route that blends straightforward crack climbing with a touch of modest exploration. It doesn’t rush the climber but instead invites measured moves, rewarding those who come ready with the right gear and a patient eye for the line. Whether you’re honing crack skills or savoring the vertical expanse of Lover’s Leap’s East Wall, Fandango offers a clear-headed challenge framed by the Sierra’s high alpine charm.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and subtle route-finding complexity on the second pitch call for careful movement and vigilance. The rappel descent requires an efficient double-rope setup to avoid hanging on gear, so come prepared and double-check anchors before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length350 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in morning light and avoid afternoon heat.

Focus on precise gear placements in the finger crack on pitch one for smooth progress.

Pay close attention to route direction on pitch two; it’s easy to stray right or left.

Use a double-rope rappel from the anchors to descend safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels approachable for climbers familiar with crack climbing, although the crux lies in the steady application of precise gear placements and sustained finger cracks. The second pitch’s less obvious line creates a mild challenge but nothing that inflates the grade. Compared to other Lover’s Leap climbs, Fandango offers a moderate introduction to the area’s rich trad terrain without demanding extreme difficulty.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack up to 2.5 inches is essential, with an emphasis on smaller cams and nuts for reliable placements in finger cracks. Expect gear anchors at the belay stations and pitons at the top of the route.

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Tags

finger crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
granite
route finding