"Family Jewels offers two pitches of accessible trad climbing on Jewel of the Nile Wall, blending technical crack moves with graceful dihedrals. With moderate difficulty and solid protection, it’s a prime choice for climbers seeking a true Colorado trad experience in a serene valley setting."
Perched within the rugged embrace of the Jewel of the Nile Wall, Family Jewels offers climbers a compelling taste of traditional climbing amid Colorado’s striking Estes Park Valley. This two-pitch route begins with a straightforward 5.7 first pitch that moves through a sculpted left-facing dihedral. The route’s initial crack widens and twists upward, guiding climbers past several ledges and onto a grassy, sloping platform—a natural resting spot before the crux. There, the rock’s golden hues catch the light, lending a warm glow to the climb’s signature features.
The second pitch steps up the challenge with a 5.9 rating. Here, the climb veers right and then cleverly back left, approaching the dihedral again just below a prominent roof. A bold move places your feet securely on the face beside the dihedral, opening the way for satisfying crack climbing that leads steadily to the top. The rock is clean and offers solid holds, while the dihedral embraces you like a natural corridor, urging upward progress. This section rewards well-balanced technique and steady body positioning, making the route both accessible yet engaging.
Descending is straightforward: careful traversing right along ledges delivers you to the lower of two trees, where a single rappel safely returns you to the base. Protection-wise, Family Jewels requires a mix of traditional gear. Bring one large cam to guard the wide bottom crack; beyond that, a standard rack covers the varied crack sizes encountered.
Set within Big Thompson Canyon’s quieter stretches, this moderate but memorable climb combines practical challenge with splendid views and a sense of quiet wilderness. Early mornings or late afternoons offer ideal lighting and temperatures, with the wall catching soft sun before shading mid-day climbs—a valuable consideration for timing your ascent. Approaching the route means a short, moderate hike through forested terrain typical of the Estes Valley, a reminder that every step toward the rock adds to the commitment and anticipation.
Family Jewels rewards thoughtful gear choices and measured pacing. Take hydration seriously during warmer months, and wear shoes with a secure fit to navigate the cracks confidently. Whether you’re polishing trad skills or savoring an accessible grade in a stunning setting, this climb balances satisfying movement with an inviting sense of adventure.
The descent ledges demand careful foot placement as some are narrow and prone to loose debris. Use caution during rappel and double-check anchor placements on trees before descending.
Start early to avoid warmer afternoon temperatures on the sun-exposed sections.
Wear well-fitted climbing shoes that excel in crack climbing.
Stay hydrated—rock exposure and altitude can sneak up on you.
Scout the descent ledges carefully; they can be narrow and require solid footing.
A single large cam is key for securing the wide bottom crack. Beyond that, a full standard rack of cams and nuts will handle the diverse crack sizes and placements encountered on both pitches.
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