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False Friends: A Classic Trad Line in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
easy crack
trad
single pitch
granite
classic
smoke bluffs
squamish
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
False Friends
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"False Friends offers a clean, accessible crack climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs, ideal for trad climbers honing fundamental crack skills. This single pitch blends easy hand jams with a shift to a delicate thin crack, wrapped in classic granite that rewards precision and patience."

False Friends: A Classic Trad Line in Squamish

False Friends offers a straightforward, approachable crack climb that quietly invites both newcomers and seasoned climbers to test their fundamentals on Squamish’s famous granite. Beginning with a roomy, easy crack that encourages hand jams and finger locks, the route gradually shifts into a thin, L-shaped seam that demands precise footwork and steady body positioning. The rock is low-angled, granting a confident sense of exposure without unnecessary intimidation, ideal for those refining crack climbing techniques or warming up to harder lines across the Smoke Bluffs.

Located in the Burgers and Fries sector, False Friends benefits from a well-maintained approach along easy forest trails, presenting an accessible climb with classic Squamish granite textures underfoot. The air carries the faint scent of Douglas fir, while the soft chatter of nearby climbs hums around you, creating a focused yet lively atmosphere. As the crack terminates, the transition onto the thin crack offers a change of pace, inviting subtle balance adjustments and slow, deliberate movements.

This single-pitch 5.6 trad route is protected by a standard rack, making gear placement intuitive and straightforward for most climbers carrying basic cams and nuts. The quality of the rock supports solid placements without excessive searching or fiddling, reducing stress during the climb. With three star votes from the local community, False Friends earns respect as a dependable introduction to crack climbing in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs, delivering value through simplicity and quality.

Climbers should keep in mind the location’s moderate traffic, especially on weekends, and plan their visit for early morning or late afternoon to enjoy cooler conditions and quieter trails. Weather in this coastal region can shift quickly, so layering and waterproof options are advisable. Applying ample chalk to counter the granite’s varying friction zones helps maintain confident holds, and a set of gloves is an optional but helpful addition for beginners working hand jams.

Whether you seek a gentle introduction to granite crack climbing or a reliable, low-stress route to warm up before pushing harder lines nearby, False Friends balances ease with solid climbing technique. The approachable nature of this line encourages building skill and confidence, letting climbers engage fully with the rock, the environment, and their own progression.

Climber Safety

Though the rock quality is reliable, placements toward the upper thin crack require deliberate, precise gear placements. The approach trail is moderate, but fallen leaves can make footing slippery, so take care, especially after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to beat the midday crowd and enjoy cooler temperatures on the wall.

Apply chalk generously for the varying friction zones on the granite; keep hands dry.

Wear crack gloves if you’re new to hand jams to protect skin and improve grip.

Watch for changing coastal weather, especially mist or rain that can slick the rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating here feels true to grade—accessible yet requiring solid crack climbing basics. The initial section is comfortable but don’t underestimate the delicate thin crack near the top, which adds a subtle crux that lifts the engagement without pushing into higher difficulty.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack covers everything you'll need here, with placements that are straightforward and secure on solid granite. Basic cams and nuts allow confident pro throughout the crack system.

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Tags

easy crack
trad
single pitch
granite
classic
smoke bluffs
squamish