"Discover the precise challenge of Fall is in the Air, a single-pitch trad route carving a clean dihedral crack in Castlewood Canyon’s sandstone walls. Perfect for climbers honing their crack technique, its straightforward approach pairs well with subtle moves and reliable protection."
Perched just south of the distinctive downclimb area separating the Falls Wall and the Zoids, "Fall is in the Air" offers a focused slice of trad climbing with clean lines and clear features. The route begins on an approachable slab that leads you steadily to the base of a pronounced hole, a natural gateway to the main dihedral crack. This clean fissure invites you up via stemming moves, relying on solid face holds that pepper the angled rock. The granite here feels textured but confident under your fingertips, demanding precise foot placement as you ascend. The climbing maintains a steady rhythm, rewarding those who read the crack and stem patiently with consistent movement and a satisfying sense of flow.
Protection requires thoughtful gear selection: smaller cams such as a #0.5 to 1 Friend or TCU and nuts are essential for securing the crux crack sections, while a larger #3.5 to 4 Friend offers safety for the deceptively wide upper finish. While the line doesn’t stretch for long—just a single pitch—the technical demands and subtle shifts in crack width keep the challenge engaging throughout. For those weighing options, the route can also be top-roped using natural anchors from a nearby small tree, allowing for focused practice on clean crack technique without the full lead commitment.
Castlewood Canyon State Park, where this route lies, feels wild yet accessible. Its sandstone walls catch the afternoon sun, glowing warm and inviting, while the surrounding canyon whispers with breeze and rustling leaves. The approach is straightforward, allowing a swift transition from trail to rock, making it an ideal spot for climbers seeking quality trad moves without committing to lengthy hikes or complex approaches. It’s a solid pick for early season or crisp autumn climbs when the air carries that fresh, invigorating chill that both sharpens your focus and extends your endurance.
In practical terms, lightweight rack setups geared toward smaller cams and nuts will keep you agile and responsive. Footwear with sticky rubber and confident edging capability will prove invaluable on the slab and face holds. Keep hydration near at hand since the sun exposure can vary steadily, turning cooler in the shade but warming on the open rock faces.
"Fall is in the Air" stakes its claim as a rewarding climb that blends straightforward access with technical finesse. It’s equally suited to trad climbers refining crack skills and those scouting for a solid single-pitch option under the broad Colorado sky. Approach with intention, gear up precisely, and let the dihedral’s quiet challenge pull you into your next memorable ascent.
Watch for loose rock near the wider crack finish and test placements carefully. The small tree used for toproping anchors is sturdy but check its integrity before relying on it. Avoid climbing late in the day when slickness from dew can appear on slab sections.
Secure a small to mid-size cam set for varied crack widths.
Rock shoes with sticky rubber improve edging on slab approach.
Plan to climb in cooler parts of the day to avoid afternoon heat.
Check for the small tree near the base for establishing a safe toprope.
Carry a selection of smaller cams (#0.5-1 Friend), nuts, and TCUs for the main crack. Don’t forget a larger piece (#3.5-4 Friend) to safeguard the wider finish. Toprope is possible off a small tree anchor near the route’s base.
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