HomeClimbingFais-toi pas mal

Fais-toi pas mal: A Bold Sport Climb on Atomic Wall

Sunnyside, Canada
quasi-roof
sport-climb
single-pitch
granite
runout-finish
New-Brunswick
moderate-grade
anchor-shared
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fais-toi pas mal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fais-toi pas mal tests your technique on a striking quasi-roof feature, delivering a brief but demanding 5.9 sport climb on New Brunswick’s Atomic Wall. With a clean fall zone and trusted anchors, it’s a must-do introduction to the area’s granite."

Fais-toi pas mal: A Bold Sport Climb on Atomic Wall

Fais-toi pas mal offers a compact but thrilling sport climb on the Atomic Wall at Sunnyside, Welsford, New Brunswick. This 50-foot route demands a steady head and nimble feet to negotiate a distinctive quasi-roof crux that stands out in this otherwise straightforward 5.9 climb. The challenge lies less in sheer technicality and more in body positioning, as you press into the roof, lifting your feet cleanly and committing to each move with focus and rhythm. The wall’s textured granite grips your hands with firm assurance, while the occasional smear underfoot tests your balance and precision.

The climb’s character is defined by a short but intense sequence that rewards those who come prepared to push through the pump. Beyond the crux, the route carries a slightly run-out finish; though the fall zone remains clear of ledges or obstacles, climbers should respect the spacing to maintain confidence all the way to the two-step anchor. Speaking of anchors, the modern setup includes six bolts and a pair of reliable Fixe ring anchor plates, shared with the adjacent Quantum Theory route, ensuring a solid and familiar top-out.

Atomic Wall lies within the larger Welsford climbing area, known for its clean granite faces and accessible approaches. The approach to Fais-toi pas mal is relatively short but requires awareness of loose scree trails and occasional uneven ground. Since the route is single-pitch, it’s an ideal choice if you’re looking to punch a strong move or two without committing to a long day on the rock.

Given the moderate height and approachable scale, this climb suits intermediate climbers aiming to sharpen their sport technique while savoring the rugged appeal of New Brunswick’s granite. Proper footwear with sticky rubber is essential to maximize foot placements during the quasi-roof moves. Bring a moderate rack of quickdraws—the six bolts suffice for clipping the route, but a few extras never hurt, especially for warming up or extending your rack.

Keep in mind that given the slight run-out in the final section, an experienced belayer and clear communication are key to maintaining safety and confidence throughout your ascent. Time your climb to avoid the midday sun, as the wall faces southeast and heats up in warmer months, potentially affecting friction and comfort. Spring and early autumn offer a cooler, more comfortable climbing window.

Fais-toi pas mal delivers a tight, memorable 5.9 experience where technique and composure combine. Whether you’re dispatching your first sport route or looking to test your skills on granite unfamiliar to many, this climb invites both the thrill of precise movement and the quiet satisfaction of standing atop a clean, well-protected line with views over the surrounding forested ridges.

Climber Safety

Watch your protection spacing near the top; while the fall zone is clear, the end section’s run-out requires careful clipping and trust in your belayer. Loose rock and scree on the approach demand steady footing to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Wear sticky climbing shoes to handle the roof section smoothly.

Approach is a short hike over loose talus—use careful footing.

Climb early or late in the day to avoid the sun-heated granite in summer.

Communicate clearly with your belayer around the run-out finish to stay composed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels true to the grade, with a distinctive crux under the roof that demands strong footwork and body tension. While the moves aren’t excessively difficult, the slight run-out approaching the anchor adds a mental edge that makes this route punch above its numerical value. Climbers familiar with nearby routes like Quantum Theory will find a comparable level of challenge.

Gear Requirements

Six bolts punctuate the line, ending at a dual Fixe ring anchor, shared with Quantum Theory. A standard rack of quickdraws is sufficient, though the run-out finish calls for trusted clipping and a confident belay system.

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Tags

quasi-roof
sport-climb
single-pitch
granite
runout-finish
New-Brunswick
moderate-grade
anchor-shared