Fairy Ring offers a unique trad climbing experience for those eager to test their hand crack skills in the heart of Squamish’s famed Smoke Bluffs. Starting with a deceptively tricky crux, the climb demands steady technique and patience as the route quickly shifts from promising to a grime-filled struggle. Early moves engage strong hand jams and require awkward body positioning, a short but intense section that separates confident crack climbers from the rest. Beyond this initial challenge, the rock’s character changes drastically—the cracks become stuffed with rotten roots and embedded grime, making progress slower and more deliberate. Despite the less-than-ideal stone, the climb retains a distinct charm for climbers seeking an offbeat challenge on a single 75-foot pitch.

The route protection suits a standard trad rack with a focus on larger hand-sized pieces, accommodating the wide cracks well except where vegetation and dirt impede placements. The crux is well-protected, giving some comfort through the hardest moves. However, climbers need to stay alert to the two-bolt anchor, which sits out on the upper right slab and can easily be missed—venturing past this point will lead you into the trees, signaling the end of the line.

Approaching Fairy Ring from the Smoke Bluffs parking area, expect a short walk over uneven but generally clear trails that thread through open forest patches. The setting captures Squamish’s rugged spirit, with towering granite edges applauding your ascent and the scent of pine lingering on the breeze. Though the upper section’s grime and roots might test your patience, the climb remains a valuable exercise for refining crack techniques and mental grit.

For climbers planning their journey, timing can influence both the climb and approach. Mornings bring cooler air and shade, ideal for gripping sweaty hands while afternoons warm the slab anchors for comfortable top-out belays. Always prepare for variable conditions by bringing enough water and footwear suited to crumbly terrain near the base. Expect some awkward movements early on, so warming up on a nearby easier crack climb first is a solid tactic.

While Fairy Ring lacks the polished slickness of Squamish’s premier routes, it rewards those who value solid hand jams and a raw trad experience. It’s a short, intense challenge that warns against expectations of a clean ascent, yet offers something memorable for dedicated climbers willing to embrace the earthier side of the Smoke Bluffs.