Fairy Forest offers a crisp introduction to classic trad climbing on the striking Tiger Slabs in Newfoundland’s South Coast. This single-pitch route centers around a distinctive crack cleaving a sharp corner, inviting climbers into an immediate, engaging challenge. The crack demands focused gear placements and steady movement up to a large, flared seam that guards a key bulge. Surmounting this obstacle leads to a generous ledge, a natural resting point where the climb’s character shifts. Beyond the technical crack work, the route eases into an unpretentious scramble toward the summit, granting climbers time to catch their breath and appreciate the rugged coastal environment.

The entire climb stretches roughly 60 feet but packs variety into its brief span. The initial crack section brings technical engagement with sustained effort, while the following scramble rewards with a sense of wilderness connection, weaving through exposed rock faces dappled by stunted trees. Those final steps can be approached two ways: a short, enjoyable ramp that leads to a cluster of resilient trees, which serve as an established anchor point shared with the nearby Tiger Woods route; or veering left around the corner to reach the anchors atop routes facing the opposite side. This flexibility highlights the area’s multiple climbing options and its approachable nature.

Getting to Fairy Forest means entering the lesser-known climbing enclave on Newfoundland’s Burin Peninsula. The slabs here catch the afternoon sun, warming the rock and encouraging climbing sessions that stretch into late afternoon when temperatures ease. Unlike heavily trafficked climbing zones, Tiger Slabs breathes a quiet atmosphere where the natural elements command respect. Watching the breeze ripple through the coastal foliage and hearing seabirds call add subtle soundtrack to the effort, subtly reminding climbers that this is rugged Atlantic edge territory.

Protection is straightforward but demands attention. The crack is best managed with gear up to 3 inches, requiring solid nuts and cams placed with care before the bulge. Reliability in placements is key to maintaining confidence on the exposed corner. Topping out at a tree anchor invites a moment to regroup and enjoy the surroundings, yet climbers should be mindful of the scramble’s loose sections and route variations at that height.

For climbers seeking a trad climb that balances a concentrated technical sequence with a raw, natural finish, Fairy Forest fits the bill. Its accessible grade of 5.9 offers a rewarding challenge for those sharpening crack skills without committing to long multi-pitch routes. The setting on Tiger Slabs delivers scenic coastal views in a rugged, windswept wilderness, capturing the flavor of Newfoundland’s remote climbing scene.