"Faded Love slices through Upper Virgin’s sun-bleached walls with delicate side pulls and a daunting roof crux. This focused 85-foot sport climb rewards precise technique and bold movement in a dry, exposed desert setting beloved by advanced climbers."
Faded Love challenges climbers with a sharp blend of technical finesse and physical grit, set against the rugged backdrop of El Potrero Chico’s Upper Virgin sector. This 85-foot single-pitch sport climb demands precise body positioning and a calm focus—its discontinuous cracks and delicate side pulls require you to trust your fingertips on fleeting edges. The route begins with a measured approach through shallow pockets, teasing your balance as you ascend towards a stark blank face punctuated by a solitary hold that feels like a lifeline in a near-empty expanse. Reaching this hold is a feat on its own, through a series of demanding, thin moves that stretch your flexibility and mental resolve.
Above this critical hold, Faded Love ups the ante with a challenging roof that tests core strength and technique—each move here is not just upward but forward, as you negotiate the overhang fighting gravity’s pull. The bolt line ends shortly after this roof, so mastery of body tension and route reading becomes essential in this transition zone. Climbers must then angle leftward to connect with the closing bolts shared with the neighboring "Milk Cow Blues," blending two climbs seamlessly in movement and commitment.
Located high on the northern Mexican cliffs, the Upper Virgin area exposes climbers to dry, sun-drenched conditions where rock texture is reliably grippy but demands clean technique to avoid slipping on the sparse holds. The vertical face, interrupted by cracks that feel half-formed and pockets that barely cradle, encourages advanced climbers to commit fully to each move, eliminating hesitation. The approach through Virgin Canyon offers a preview of the region’s dry desert environment, with warm winds weaving through sparse scrub and rocky ridges shaping the horizon.
Climbers gearing up for Faded Love should prepare for minimal protection beyond its eleven bolts; traditional gear is unnecessary here, but precision clipping and stamina are required to avoid pump mid-route. Anchoring is straightforward, sharing slings and bolts with "Milk Cow Blues"—plan your descent and rappel strategy accordingly.
Timing your climb during the cooler morning hours can help mitigate sun exposure—though the wall offers little shade—and avoid the midday heat common in Nuevo Leon. Water, lightweight gear, and focused warm-up exercises are crucial for tackling this climb effectively. The route's compact nature, combined with its technical cruxes, offers a condensed but intense experience that is as rewarding mentally as it is physically.
Faded Love represents El Potrero Chico’s spirit of exhilarating challenge; it invites climbers with a solid 5.11d skill level to push their limits on rock that demands both respect and boldness. Whether planning your first visit or returning to hone technique, understanding the subtle demands of this climb will elevate your approach to the Upper Virgin cliffs.
The major risk comes from committing to tenuous holds on the blank face and roof section, where the bolt line ends shortly after the crux. Climbers should be confident managing a route with sparse protection beyond bolts and prepare for a dynamic transition left at the top bolts leading to the anchor.
Start early to avoid strong midday sun on the wall.
Bring plenty of water; the dry desert air accelerates dehydration.
Focus on precise footwork to conserve energy on the thin holds.
Consider linking your rappel with "Milk Cow Blues" for an efficient descent.
Equipped with 11 bolts, Faded Love requires no traditional gear but demands confident clipping and sustained finger strength. The anchor is shared with "Milk Cow Blues," so plan your rope and gear management accordingly.
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