"Face The Pockets thrusts climbers into a technical 50-foot sport climb on Bald Hill’s Lower Tier, weaving a broad corner crack, a bold traverse, and a roof that demands precision. This route tests control and composure while rewarding smooth movement and confident gear work."
Face The Pockets offers a focused surge of climbing energy on a single 50-foot pitch located on the Lower Tier of Bear Mountain, famously known as Bald Hill in New Brunswick. As you approach the cliff’s right end, an immediately noticeable corner with a broad crack invites climbers to engage. The route begins by following this crack upward, where fingers and hands find rest in the pockets carved by years of wind and rain. The rock here has a tactile grip, cool and textured under hand and toe, rewarding steady movement. Once you gain the corner’s height, the climb veers left on a deliberate traverse toward a roof that crowns the wall. Negotiating this overhang demands body control and precise footwork, the roof challenging you to trust your holds and shift your weight just so. The final stretch is a vertical push straight to the top, where the ring anchor awaits, signalling a satisfying end to this sport climb.
The rock face stands firmly against the elements, offering predominantly bolt protection, though the start keeps you mindful with a slightly run-out sequence. Expect to find five bolts spaced to accommodate confident clipping, with the ring anchor providing reliable security to top out. The experience here balances exposure with comfort, requiring solid redpoint skills around the 5.10c rating. Because this climb sits on the Lower Tier of Bald Hill, it benefits from stable conditions year-round, though early season climbs may feel cool underfoot and on your skin.
Getting to Face The Pockets is straightforward; a well-marked trail leads from Bear Mountain’s main parking, passing through muted forest paths filled with the scent of pine and the distant call of birds. The approach takes about 15 minutes, unfolding gentle elevation gain beneath a sky that often shifts with the crisp maritime breeze. The cliff’s south-eastern aspect catches morning sun, warming the holds and highlighting the granite’s earthy hues, making early starts ideal for avoiding the afternoon’s stronger winds.
Supplement your gear with a helmet, as occasional loose flakes over the first few moves serve as a reminder that the mountain is alive and changing. Shoes with a stiff sole and precise edging will make the roof traverse smoother. Hydration and layered clothing are recommended, as the weather can swing quickly inland despite coastal proximity. Locals advise timing your climbs for late spring through early fall when conditions stay dry and comfortable.
Face The Pockets rewards climbers who appreciate routes that combine natural features with deliberate, technical moves. The corner crack contrasts with the horizontal challenge of the roof, and the final vertical stretch requires endurance and focus. It's a crisp, contained challenge on a cliffside known for a variety of lines—perfect for climbers stepping confidently into sport routes with a mix of crack and face climbing. Bear Mountain’s wilderness atmosphere remains accessible yet wild enough to keep your senses sharp, inspiring respect for the rock and the elements that shape it.
Exercise caution at the route’s beginning where some loose flakes may dislodge during the start moves. Helmets are strongly advised. The initial run-out section demands precise footwork and headspace before bolts appear regularly.
Approach takes about 15 minutes through well-marked forest trails.
Best climbed from late spring to early fall for ideal dry conditions.
Morning climbs offer warmer granite and less wind on the south-east facing wall.
Layer up to adjust for coastal temperature swings, and bring adequate water.
Bolted route with a ring anchor at the top. Starts with a slightly run-out sequence before bolts become more frequent. Recommended to carry a helmet due to some loose flakes near the start and shoes with precise edging to manage roof traverse.
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