5.9, Trad, TR
San Diego
California ,United States
"A compact, hands-on trad climb on South Mt. Woodson, #FA4SURE delivers a distinct hand-jam crux and a unique entry sequence that rewards precision and patience. Ideal for those looking to sharpen crack skills in a low-traffic, rugged setting."
Hidden in the rugged folds of South Mt. Woodson, #FA4SURE is a compact yet surprisingly engaging trad climb that commands attention despite its modest length. This route rewards those willing to take on its awkward entry and tricky crack system with a gripping challenge and a unique slice of San Diego’s rough granite. The route begins with an unusual and slightly unsettling start, forcing climbers into a delicate dance of balance and finger work before settling into a sequence of clean, solid hand jams nestled within a widening crack. The rock’s texture here adds character—it’s not always smooth, demanding careful placements and deliberate movements, but it offers a raw, authentic experience that feels earned, not handed out.
The climb stretches roughly 60 feet, compact yet intense enough to make any single pitch count. Protection relies primarily on a standard rack up to 5 inches, which will comfortably safeguard the route’s manageable exposure. The bolted anchors at the top—apparently a thoughtful gesture by an unknown benefactor—make for a safe and straightforward finish. Once you reach the summit, the views open up to the surrounding chaparral-dotted hills of North San Diego County, framing a quiet, contemplative moment after the technical challenge.
Approaching #FA4SURE is itself an adventure. The trail through First Ascent Land is rough but navigable, winding past rattling scrub and pine trees whose needles crunch beneath every step. Expect the approach to take around 20 minutes from the nearest parking area, crossing uneven ground and loose rock patches, so sturdy footwear and a light daypack come highly recommended. The area’s dry climate means early starts and plenty of water are key to staying comfortable, especially in summer’s relentless sun.
The climb’s rating of 5.9 fits comfortably within the moderate trad category for experienced climbers but demands respect for its offwidth and flare sequences. These moves can throw off your rhythm with their awkward shapes, requiring both physical flexibility and mental patience. Compared to other climbs in South Mt. Woodson that lean sport or face climbing-heavy, #FA4SURE stands out by emphasizing crack skills and traditional gear placement, offering valuable practice in a low-traffic spot.
Safety considerations are straightforward but unavoidable: the rock quality near the bottom can feel friable, so test placements carefully and avoid overly aggressive jerks on protection early in the pitch. The sun exposure means heat management is critical to maintaining focus and grip. Post-climb descent involves a controlled rappel from the top bolts or a careful walk-off along the ridge’s spine; either choice demands attention to loose stones and wind-exposed sections.
For those seeking a short but quality trad outing in the greater San Diego area, #FA4SURE is a hidden treasure. Its close proximity to town makes it a perfect option for a half-day adventure, one where the rock challenges your technique and the solitude sharpens your connection to this rugged California landscape.
Watch your placements closely in the lower sections where the rock can be more crumbly. Wear a helmet to guard against loose stones during approach and descent. Avoid climbing late afternoon to minimize risk of slipping on hot, sweaty hands.
Start early to avoid the heat—South Mt. Woodson bakes in the afternoon sun.
Bring sturdy shoes with good edging; the rock can shift and feels gritty in places.
Check all placements carefully near the start; some rock can be fragile.
Rappel using the fixed top bolts or prepare for a cautious walk-off on loose terrain.
A single rack up to 5 inches covers all necessary protection. The bolted anchors at the top help ensure a secure rappel or top-rope setup.
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