"Eye Of The Tiger offers a compact but technical alpine climb blending crack jamming and sustained slab friction on Southern Sierra granite. A single pitch packed with finger cracks, delicate moves, and memorable protection challenges, perfect for climbers ready to push into 5.9 trad terrain."
Eye Of The Tiger carves a concentrated yet demanding path through the rugged granite of the Tiger Cage area near Courtright Reservoir. This solitary pitch delivers a compact dose of technical climbing that tests finger strength and slab technique amidst an alpine setting where the rock’s precision meets the evolving Sierra light. The climb begins at a small right-facing crack that demands delicate finger jams, rated at 5.7, demanding a steady hand and measured movements up to its apex. At the top, a crucial 2-inch undercling provides a key hold and optimal protection placement, setting up the push into a left-facing corner that leads you fifty feet from the meadow-like approach into more open rock.
The transition onto the slab beyond the corner is where both your footwork and mental focus sharpen. Two bolts safeguard moves that nudge into 5.8 slab friction territory, with secure holes and dimples offering tactical grip as you ascend. Beyond the bolts, the route angles left toward a steep overlap, guarded by a 3/8 Alien nut placement, where sustained 5.9 climbing awaits. This section requires precise edge climbing and delicate body positioning as you shift around horizontal flares that test your balance and composure.
The final clip to the third bolt signals the last push—just six more feet to the top where a two-bolt anchor awaits, offering a reassuring endpoint perched above a broad expanse of open granite. From here, the sweeping views of the Southern Sierra unfold, rewarding the focus and effort invested in the climb.
From a gear perspective, a 60-meter rope comfortably reaches the ground on rappel, making descent straightforward and safe. Bring six quickdraws to clip the bolts, alongside pro sized up to 2 inches—with a #1 Camelot and a 3/8 Alien nut being perfect fits for the key placements. This mix of traditional gear and sport protection requires attention and route knowledge to maximize safety.
Reaching the climb involves a moderate approach through the Tiger Cage, a rugged alpine area marked by granite spires and open slopes. The trail quality fluctuates between packed earth and rocky stretches, taking approximately 30 minutes from the Courtright Reservoir parking area. Pack sufficient water and timing your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon balances optimal light and temperature, allowing for firm friction without overheating in the sun.
Eye Of The Tiger demands respect for its sustained technical sections and the subtle transitions between crack and slab climbing. It rewards climbers who combine focused movement with sound gear placements, offering a blend of alpine exposure and rock quality that’s both inspiring and pragmatic. This route stands as a solid choice for adventurous climbers eager to engage with Southern Sierra’s granite with a straightforward single-pitch trad plus sport hybrid that challenges without overwhelming.
Safety hinges on assessing slab conditions—dry rock is essential for good friction—and making deliberate placements at crux undercling and overlap zones. While the 5.9 grade is approachable for many seasoned climbers, the sustained nature requires sustained concentration and confidence on slab.
Prepare your rack, mind the approach, and get ready to engage a climb that demands finesse and rewards with sharp Sierra mountain views.
Slab sections require dry rock for safe climbing—avoid the route after rain or early morning dew. Pay close attention to protection at the overlap and undercling areas, where fewer placements increase risk. Be prepared for a precise footwork challenge above the bolts.
Start the climb early to avoid hot slab conditions in the afternoon sun.
Thoroughly inspect the slab for moisture before committing to friction moves.
Use a 60-meter rope to comfortably rappel from the anchor without rope drag.
Carry a rack with precise nuts and cams in the 2" range for secure protection.
Bring a 60-meter rope for clean lowers from the two-bolt anchor. Six quickdraws cover the bolts comfortably, and pro up to 2 inches (a #1 Camelot and 3/8 inch Alien) fit crucial placements well.
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