Expropigation stands as a straightforward yet compelling test piece within the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, carving a memorable line through a striking left-facing chimney that challenges climbers to trust their technique and gear. Situated in the Dance Hall of the Dead area near Lyons, Colorado, this single-pitch trad climb stretches about 70 feet, offering a compact but intense route that rewards both body and mind.

From the moment you step onto the approach trail, the landscape asserts itself: rugged canyon walls loom overhead with rough granite textures, while the whisper of the South Fork river below pushes a constant reminder of the wild setting. The climb begins with an inviting chimney that demands careful body positioning and precise movement—think controlled squirming paired with confident hand jamming. This chimney section isn’t just a test of strength but also of finesse, requiring you to find comfort on features that seem to beckon with firm, generous holds, those “hero jugs” that help you up and out.

Following this physical chimney segment, the route transitions into a clean, crack feature that requires fluid finger and hand jams. This section smoothly leads into a shared slab with the adjacent Lean Into It route, offering a final technical move before reaching the chains and anchors. The slab demands balance and footwork, especially as you choose your line among micro-edges and friction zones.

Protection on Expropigation leans toward traditional gear with an important emphasis on a larger cam (#5 Camalot recommended) that comfortably fits the chimney. While the official rating includes an R safety designation, climbers equipped properly will find placements reliable and reassuring to commit to each move. The climb’s 5.9 rating is straightforward but honest, blending sections of solid difficulty with accessible sequences that make it appealing to climbers stepping up from easier terrain.

The approach trail is short and manageable, winding through pine and scrub brush along rocky outcrops. Expect about 15 minutes of hiking from the trailhead before you'll see the impressive prow of the climb rising sharply above. The area enjoys full sun exposure during midday, so early starts are advised during warmer months to avoid overheating. Cooler spring and fall conditions often provide the best grip and comfort.

Descending involves a straightforward double rappel from bolted anchors. The anchors themselves sit on a spacious ledge, making for a smooth and safe descent back to the base. Climbers should double-check their rappel gear and watch for loose debris, which can be a hazard on sunny days when rock flakes dry out and become brittle.

Expropigation offers a clear, concise climbing experience that blends technical chimney work with crack climbing skills. It’s a valuable addition to any trad climber’s log in the Lyons area, balancing manageable length and moderate exposure with a touch of excitement and rock character that defines the St. Vrain Canyons. Whether you’re honing crack techniques or exploring Colorado’s diverse climbing corridors, this route delivers practical challenge and memorable moments against the backdrop of rugged canyon walls and lively natural surroundings.