Exploring the Lizard King Boulders: Classic Hand Cracks and Quiet Challenges in California

Perris, California
hand crack
trad
bouldering
desert
crack climbing
private access
high desert
technical
Length: 15-25 ft
Type: Trad, Bouldering
Stars
Pitches
bouldering, single pitch
Protected Place
Inland Empire - Perris Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Lizard King Boulders offer climbers an intriguing mix of quality hand crack lines and desert quietude in California’s Inland Empire. With iconic problems like the Lizard King Hand Crack 5.10 and careful access considerations, this area balances adventure with responsibility."

Exploring the Lizard King Boulders: Classic Hand Cracks and Quiet Challenges in California

Hidden within the high desert contours of California’s Inland Empire, the Lizard King Boulders offer an authentic, low-key climbing experience that rewards those willing to navigate the delicate balance of access and adventure. Sitting at roughly 1,600 feet elevation, these boulders present a distinct blend of technical climbing and desert atmosphere far from crowded playgrounds. The area is defined by standout problems such as the renowned Lizard King Hand Crack, a 5.10 trad line that draws climbers seeking to test their crack climbing skills on solid edges and sharp dihedrals.

Approaching the boulders requires a bit of careful planning. The main access route threads through private property, so respect and discretion are essential to maintaining this fragile access. Climbers are advised to avoid drawing unnecessary attention, especially near the church at the base of McIntyre Road, where no trespassing signs remind visitors of the need for careful approach. Ideally, adventurers should travel with a 4wd or AWD vehicle as the rough dirt roads can be unforgiving, particularly after rain.

The terrain here is dry and rugged, offering a welcome contrast to wetter climbing destinations. Weather averages suggest climbing is best undertaken outside of rare precipitation days that primarily occur in winter months. Spring through early summer and mid-fall offer the most reliable conditions—clear skies combined with cooler temperatures make for enjoyable sessions. The orientation of the climbs lets you take advantage of shaded spots in the hotter months, while still enjoying warmth during chillier days typical at this elevation.

Besides the marquee Lizard King Hand Crack, the area features the classic Lizard King Dihedril, a line that commands attention yet demands respect from climbers familiar with technical crack moves. These routes carve through rough rock faces that test fingertip jams and hand stacks alike.

Climbing here is best approached with traditional protection equipment—nuts and cams tailored for crack sizes typical of 5.10 grade lines. The rock is generally solid, but loose material and occasional shards call for the climber's vigilance. Because this is a bouldering and short trad-focused zone, bringing several pads and a calm, methodical mindset will elevate your safety and fun.

The quieter vibe of the Lizard King Boulders comes from its tucked-away setting within the Perris Area’s Juniper Flats—specifically the High Voltage Area sub-region. This remoteness lets climbers feel a sense of discovery but also a responsibility to tread lightly. Local issues with illegal dumping underscore the need for visitors to pack out all trash and avoid behaviors that could threaten access privileges.

Descending from climbs is straightforward; most problems are bouldering height or short enough for careful downclimbing. Keep in mind the uneven terrain and loose rock underfoot on the approach and return route.

Ultimately, the Lizard King Boulders promise an engaging blend of technical hand crack climbing and desert solitude with practical considerations front and center. Whether you’re chasing classic crack ascents or just seeking a quiet spot to sharpen trad skills, this tucked-away area rewards preparation, respect for access, and a passion for climbing on its own natural terms.

Climber Safety

Approach roads are rough and can become challenging after rain, so a 4wd vehicle is advisable. The rock is generally sound but includes some loose flakes and sharp edges—climbers should remain alert especially on the edges and during downclimbs.

Area Details

TypeTrad, Bouldering
Pitchesbouldering, single pitch
Length15-25 feet

Local Tips

Respect private property and avoid trespassing near the church at McIntyre Rd.

4wd or AWD vehicles are highly recommended for the access roads.

Pack out all trash and avoid any activity that could risk closure due to dumping.

Bring multiple pads for bouldering and gear for traditional crack protection.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Lizard King Hand Crack stands out at 5.10, a moderate but technical grade that demands solid trad skills. The area's climbs lean toward authentic crack climbing—not overly sandbagged, offering a fair test that appeals to intermediate and advanced crack climbers. Compared to nearby California crack climbing areas, the routes here feel straightforward yet require precise technique and protection placement.

Gear Requirements

Traditional protection is recommended, focusing on nuts and cams suitable for crack climbing at the 5.10 difficulty. Multiple crash pads are advised for bouldering problems. A 4wd vehicle helps gain access due to rugged road conditions.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
bouldering
desert
crack climbing
private access
high desert
technical