Mocanaqua, often called Shickshinny by locals, offers a distinctive climbing experience tucked in the rugged hills behind its namesake town in Pennsylvania. This area is a collection of scattered crags and boulder gardens, including Paradise, The Library, Main Wall, Hawk Rock, and Squirrel Rock. While some spots are currently closed due to land restrictions, much of the climbing here remains open and accessible, rewarding visitors with a rich blend of natural beauty and industrial history.

Approaching Mocanaqua’s cliffs near the river, climbers encounter layers of dark culm — the remnants of decades-old coal mining waste that once cascaded down the slopes from towering mine carts. These blackened debris banks tell a story of the land’s past, with abandoned shafts and rusted structures offering a backdrop as raw and gripping as the climbing itself. Among the exposed quartzite cliffs, you can still see where the coal piles stopped short, revealing 50 to 60-foot walls that invite exploration.

The quartzite belongs to the Penobscot formation, geologically related to renowned ridges found as far south as West Virginia's Seneca Rocks and as far north as New York's Gunks. This stone delivers solid, textured surfaces with plenty of sharp edges and features that suit both boulderers and trad climbers. Routes span a spectrum of challenges, with sport climbs reaching as high as 5.13a and bouldering problems that test power and precision, including some highball lines.

Mocanaqua’s climbing history is marked by unsung pioneers like Albert Pisaneschi, whose late-70s and early-80s first ascents include hard trad routes and demanding A4 aid climbs. While many of his routes remain a local secret, his legacy is felt deeply as climbers navigate the same faces he once did, stirring an appreciation for grit and ground-up exploration mentality.

Currently, the Earth Conservancy owns key sections of land including Paradise, The Library, and Hawk Rock; these are closed to climbing for now. Stewardship efforts are ongoing to work with local organizations to secure future access, so respecting these closures is essential. In the meantime, climbers can focus on the Main Wall and other crags with legal access and ample climbing options.

Getting to the heart of Mocanaqua is surprisingly straightforward considering its wild character. From Philadelphia, the Lehigh Valley, or New York City, the fastest route usually involves taking I-80 West to exit 256, then north on Route 93, followed by a 7.5-mile drive on Route 239 through Wapwallopen toward Mocanaqua. The Main Wall can be found shortly after crossing the bridge into town, with parking just a short hike from a small dirt lot off the road.

For those seeking classic bouldering problems, standout names such as Buddha Wintergreen (V3), Gladiator (V4), and Strawberry Shortcake (V5) offer tested challenges on solid quartzite. The area also features impressive high-grade problems like Energy (V6), Wasted (V7), and Gault’s Roof (V8) for those craving harder projects. Trad and sport climbers can look to pitches like Pizza Crack (5.6), Urine Over Your Head (5.8), and Flamer (5.11a), and more demanding sport routes ranging up through 5.13a with War and Peace. Each route is a chance to engage with the land’s history and raw physicality.

Mocanaqua has a rugged charm — it’s not polished climbing paradise, but a place with character layered in stories of industry and perseverance. The rock demands focus, the terrain challenges the approach, and the atmosphere fuels your connection to climbing as a craft done in tune with both nature and human history. Climbers coming here should prepare for a moderate elevation around 523 feet, natural tree screening, and terrain that feels both wild and approachable.

This climbing playground is a reminder that adventure often lives just beyond the well-trodden paths. It calls for respect, preparation, and an eagerness to embrace its earthy textures and hard-won routes. Whether bouldering highballs or leading sustained sport climbs, Mocanaqua delivers a compelling experience shaped by geological heritage and the silent echoes of coal mining days gone by.