"Ericsson Crag #3, perched at nearly 12,000 feet in California’s High Sierra, offers climbers a rugged alpine experience with focused technical routes and breathtaking views. This remote sub-peak of Mt. Ericsson challenges adventurers with exposed downclimbs and a classic 5.10c climb that demands careful planning and gear."
Ericsson Crag #3 stands as the northernmost sub-peak of Mt. Ericsson, rising sharply to nearly 12,000 feet amidst the high alpine wilderness of California’s Sierra Nevada. This lesser-trafficked spire offers a raw and rugged climbing experience marked by steep terrain and the kind of solitude that only serious adventurers seek. Though limited in developed routes, one notable climb anchors the area: “Turn Down For What” (5.10c), a classic that draws climbers ready to test their skills against exposed, technical verticality.
Reaching Ericsson Crag #3 demands preparation. The approach is an extension of the route to Mt. Ericsson’s summit, with descent options that require clear judgment. From the summit register, climbers can opt for a chute descending west — which, if snow-free or supported by mountaineering tools like crampons or an ice axe, offers a straightforward drop. Otherwise, the safer descent veers south along the ridge, then follows the second chute on the east side; this path involves exposed 4th-class downclimbing and navigating a loose gully that challenges your route-finding skills. Midway, the gully narrows and seems to cliff out, prompting a careful leftward traverse to a sharp arete on loose trails, then a final rightward traverse brings you safely to the ground. While the route looks complex on paper, it’s quite manageable with attention and some alpine experience.
The climb unfolds in a high country setting where alpine air is crisp and the views expansive, offering dramatic glimpses of the Great Western Divide. Expect variable conditions; snow can linger late into the season on the shaded aspects, making timing crucial. The rock quality can be variable but generally solid enough to inspire confidence, especially on the featured classic route. The crag sits well above treeline, providing panoramic exposure to the elements—both a thrill and a call for vigilance.
With limited and demanding routes, Ericsson Crag #3 holds a quiet, wild appeal more than it does an arena for casual sport climbing. It calls out to climbers who thrive on mountain terrain with a blend of rock and alpine route-finding. The grade of its hallmark climb at 5.10c suggests a moderately challenging technical experience, perfect for experienced climbers looking to escape crowded areas without sacrificing quality.
For those planning a visit, the surroundings offer an unforgettable blend of stark high-altitude beauty and the adrenaline of navigating steep, sometimes loose terrain. Moisture and cooler temperatures dominate outside the heart of summer, so prepare for swift weather changes. The area connects to a larger cluster of alpine walls in the region, adding a compelling base for an extended climbing adventure in one of California’s most spectacular wilderness zones.
Classic climbs here exemplify precision and commitment – “Turn Down For What” stands out as a technical test-piece that rewards well-honed crack and face climbing skills with exposure and length sufficient to satisfy a challenging alpine day. Though the route count is low, chances to enjoy a wilderness escape without crowds and the expansive Sierra views are plentiful.
In summary, Ericsson Crag #3 is a destination for climbers who appreciate the blend of alpine adventure and focused rock climbing. It demands respect, proper gear, and an eye for route-finding but offers a raw, invigorating experience for those ready to meet its challenges. Whether you’re atop the summit register scanning the horizon or laboring carefully down that loose gully, you’ll feel the pulse of the high Sierra underfoot – remote, elevated, and intensely real.
The descent routes include steep, loose gullies and exposed downclimbs where falling could have serious consequences. Snow-filled chutes require proper mountaineering equipment and experience. Exercise caution on loose trails and avoid descending on unstable sections without secure footing.
Check snow conditions before attempting the west chute descent—crampons and an axe may be necessary.
Follow the southern ridge past the summit register for a safer descent on loose terrain.
Be prepared for exposed 4th class downclimbing and route finding on the descent.
Carry enough gear for alpine transitions; weather can shift quickly at this elevation.
The descent from the summit involves downclimbing exposed 4th class terrain and route-finding through loose gullies. Depending on conditions, bringing mountaineering tools like crampons and an ice axe is advisable for snow-covered chutes.
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