HomeClimbingExpecting to Fly

Expecting to Fly: A Bold Trad Climb in the Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles

Lake Arrowhead, California United States
trad crack
hand crack finish
granite
single pitch
moderate approach
San Bernardino Mountains
Lake Arrowhead
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Expecting to Fly
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Expecting to Fly demands precision and bravery on a 60-foot trad route weaving through discontinuous cracks and a tough hand crack finish. Set against the rugged backdrop of Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles, this climb blends technical moves with solid protection for a compact yet compelling adventure."

Expecting to Fly: A Bold Trad Climb in the Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles

Expecting to Fly offers a striking introduction to trad climbing within the rugged terrain of Lake Arrowhead's Pinnacles. This single-pitch, 60-foot route challenges climbers with a blend of discontinuous cracks and a steep hand crack finish. From the base, the climb immediately tests your route-finding skills as the crack system weaves unpredictably, demanding careful footwork and precise gear placements. The face that rises above dares you to read its subtle holds and commit to positions that require balanced strength and steady nerves. The climb earns its name from the pioneer party’s daring leaps across narrow pinnacles during their descent—a reminder that this area demands respect and attention.

Set in the San Bernardino Mountains, this route is a rugged escape from the busier Southern California crags. The granite here is rough-edged, offering solid friction but requiring reliable trad gear placements. Protection begins with two fixed bolts, but the majority depends on a traditional rack suited for medium to large cams to secure your progress. Chain anchors at the top provide a safe and straightforward rappel.

The approach is a modest trek through pine-strewn hills, with an unmarked trail that twists through forested slopes. Park near the Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles trailhead, and prepare for about 20 minutes of moderate hiking through uneven terrain before reaching the base. The climb faces southwest, welcoming the morning sun but shading from the afternoon heat, making spring and fall the most comfortable seasons to visit.

Due to its discontinuous cracks, Expecting to Fly demands focus on gear placement and footwork. The hand crack finish provides a satisfying climax where the natural line tightens and tests your jamming technique. With a 5.10a rating, it leans into the upper moderate range—accessible to experienced climbers who can hold composure on less obvious holds. Local climbers often note the grade feels fair but with a crux requiring a confident reach and body positioning.

Safety here includes attention to loose rock on the approach and remaining vigilant about changing weather, as sudden mountain storms can turn granite slick. The descent via rappel from the fixed chains is straightforward but requires careful rope management.

Expecting to Fly is an emblematic climb for those eager to experience Lake Arrowhead’s wild granite with the thrill of a bold, technical trad pitch. It blends rugged exposure, engaging moves, and practical protection, making it a memorable challenge for the prepared adventurer.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the approach and occasional wear on fixed bolts mean careful inspection is prudent before climbing. Weather can change quickly in the San Bernardino Mountains, so plan accordingly and avoid climbs shortly after rain to reduce slip hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach involves a 20-minute hike over uneven, forested ground—sturdy boots recommended.

Spring and fall offer the best temperatures with morning sun and afternoon shade on the route.

Double-check fixed bolts and chains before reliance—they see occasional wear.

Stay alert for loose rock during approach and scramble sections near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10a, Expecting to Fly balances accessibility with a committed feel. The discontinuous cracks create consistent search-and-place protection challenges, while the hand crack finish serves as a physical crux. Locals agree the grade is accurate—neither soft nor stiff—but demands technical skill and calm on exposed moves. Compared to nearby routes, this climb offers a well-rounded, bold trad experience without the multi-pitch commitment.

Gear Requirements

Two bolts mark the start and anchor the top, but bring a full trad rack with medium to large cams for tricky placements along the discontinuous cracks and hand crack finish.

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Tags

trad crack
hand crack finish
granite
single pitch
moderate approach
San Bernardino Mountains
Lake Arrowhead