"Exodus commands attention on Cracked Canyon’s right side, offering a technical trad climb that tests balance and precise movement over 70 feet. Its final crux at the arete demands control and subtle footwork—perfect for climbers craving a short but intense challenge in the Telluride region."
Exodus stands as a sharp test within Cracked Canyon’s rugged lineup, beckoning climbers who appreciate a concise, technical trad outing. Situated just right of the broad corner crack, this 70-foot route carves a definitive line along a clean corner system that demands precise footwork and steady composure. The rock's texture grips firmly underhand and sidepull holds, guiding you upward through a series of delicate moves that unfold with directness and clarity.
From the canyon floor, the climb pulls you into a compact battle with balance and finesse. The first section allows for placement of standard trad gear along solid crystalline faces, but it’s the closing moves where Exodus truly stakes its claim. As you round the arete’s edge, a sharp, balancy move onto a small crimp punctuates the climb, forcing a brief moment of mental sharpness and physical control before topping out. This last crux holds a particular tension—testing body positioning in a way that elevates the grade beyond what the moderate 5.8 suggests.
Cracked Canyon itself lies in the Telluride/Norwood region, a landscape defined by open forest edges and shifting light that traces the vertical walls. The approach meanders through mixed desert scrub and pine, giving a gradual transition from the valley’s quiet to the canyon’s ever-present rock ambiance. The feeling is intimate and pragmatic; the crags are accessible yet present a focused objective for those intent on exploring Colorado’s trad offerings without the volume or complexity of more famous neighboring walls.
Protection calls for a standard trad rack—cams and nuts covering sizes that suit parallel cracks and finger-width placements. While the rock is generally solid, climbers should keep an eye on small flakes and occasional friable patches near the top, especially on the crux arete. The gear placements here are trustworthy but require a steady hand and careful evaluation to maximize security.
Timing your climb during mid-morning to early afternoon is optimal to avoid both the chill of early shade and the high sun that heats the exposed rock surfaces later in the day. Late spring through early fall offers stable weather windows, though summer midday heat can raise risks of sweat-slick holds on the sharper edges. Footwear with sticky rubber and a precise fit will reward careful edging and smearing along the varied slab and corner rock.
Descending Exodus is straightforward: a single rope rappel lands you safely back on the canyon floor. The rappel anchors are well-maintained but always worth a thorough check before committing. Alternatively, a confident downclimb on solid sections is possible but less recommended for those new to the area or less familiar with the rock’s nuances.
For climbers seeking a brief yet challenging climb that blends technical finesse with solid trad demands, Exodus offers a compact but satisfying adventure. It’s a route that respects the subtle challenges of balance and precision without dragging out the effort, perfect for a focused day in Cracked Canyon’s quiet but compelling walls.
Carefully check small flakes and placements near the top crux as some rock can be brittle. The canyon’s sun exposure also means holds can get slippery with perspiration during hotter days. Approaching and descending require steady caution on uneven terrain.
Start mid-morning to catch optimal sun before the rock heats up.
Bring sticky-soled climbing shoes for precise edging on sharp features.
Inspect anchors carefully before rappelling down.
Hydrate well—approach sun exposure increases with midday heat.
Standard trad rack recommended, focusing on cams and nuts suited to finger and hand-sized cracks. Watch for small flakes near the top arete; placements require attention but are generally solid.
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