Evil Pillar - California's Coarse Granite Challenge in the Horsemen’s Cemetery

Apple Valley, California
sport climbing
granite
east-facing
desert
technical
single pitch
5.10b
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Horsemen's Center
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Evil Pillar stands as the sharp east-facing formation in California’s Horsemen’s Cemetery, featuring gritty granite sport climbs highlighted by the renowned Necessary Evil (5.10b). This compact venue delivers a focused high desert climbing experience with technical routes set against a striking rugged backdrop."

Evil Pillar - California's Coarse Granite Challenge in the Horsemen’s Cemetery

Rising prominently on the hillside east of the Cemetery’s core, Evil Pillar commands attention with its steep, east-leaning granite face. This rugged formation offers climbers a focused experience on coarse granite that tests grip and precision without the distractions of sprawling terrain. Its reputation centers on the standout sport route Necessary Evil (5.10b), a technical challenge that carries the essence of the area’s well-earned 4.5-star acclaim. The Evil Pillar is a compact gem where quality trumps quantity, welcoming those who seek purposeful mid-grade ascents with a touch of grit.

Approaching the pillar, you'll leave behind the Cemetery’s central nodes and press due east, navigating the dry, desert hillside to arrive just north of the Black Tower. The proximity to formations like the Tombstones and the cluster of Pillars of Hope and Despair gives Evil Pillar a quietly commanding presence overlooking the scattered rockscape, inviting climbers to explore beyond the beaten path without sacrificing accessibility.

At 3,200 feet in elevation, the climate here mirrors the high desert’s defining traits: clear skies, low humidity, and seasonal shifts that favor cooler months for comfortable climbing stints. While specific weather averages are not detailed here, the high desert’s predictable pattern means spring and fall stand out as the prime seasons to visit, avoiding the intense heat of summer and the chill of winter nights.

Climbing at Evil Pillar unfolds along seven distinct sport routes, carved with deliberate holds that exploit the granite’s natural texture. With grades centered around the approachable yet invigorating 5.10b range, the climbing strikes a balance between accessibility and challenge. This is not a place for wandering; instead, it demands focus and commitment on every move, perfect for climbers eager to hone skills on uncompromising stone.

Classic climbs are highlighted by Necessary Evil — a route that invites climbers to savor the texture and technical demands of this east-facing wall. While only a handful of routes make their home here, each line offers a carefully calibrated dose of friction and route finding, amplifying the thrill of those consistent holds that reward precise footwork and steady hands.

Gear-wise, sport climbing essentials will get you through with ease, but be ready for typical desert conditions: dusty rock and some loose debris require careful cleaning and attention. The surrounding Horsemen’s Center neighborhood and broader Apple Valley Area offer a raw backdrop—dry, sparse vegetation punctuated by the occasional scrub and rock scatter—setting the tone for a climbing experience that steps away from crowded venues.

When timing your climb, the east-facing aspect means mornings bring shade and a cooler welcome, while afternoons introduce sun that intensifies rapidly. Early starts are recommended to capitalize on comfortable temperatures and maximize your window for climbing before the desert heat sets in. Descents involve careful hiking back down the approach slopes; there are no rappel anchors here, so maintaining situational awareness is key to a safe exit.

For anyone intrigued by technical sport climbing on coarse granite amid the sharp beauty of California’s high desert, Evil Pillar offers a concentrated and earnest playground. Its modest height and handful of routes don't diminish the experience—instead, they focus the energy into quality climbs that beckon with straightforward beta and a quietly bold challenge. Pack your shoes, chalk up, and prepare to embrace the Horsemen’s Cemetery’s gritty east-facing icon — where every hold counts and the desert horizon stretches wide beneath your feet.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock and debris on routes and the trail; the dry desert environment means some holds may be dusty or unstable. The approach involves steep, uneven terrain with minimal shade later in the day, so hydration and sun protection are essential.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid afternoon sun on the east-facing wall.

Bring plenty of water—the high desert climate can quickly dehydrate.

Check for loose rock or dirt on holds and clean carefully before climbing.

Approach is steep and brushy; sturdy shoes with good traction are advised.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs here center around 5.10b, offering solid technical challenges typical of well-protected sport routes on coarse granite. The grading is straightforward without a reputation for sandbagging, making it approachable for climbers comfortable in this mid-range difficulty. Compared to other high desert venues, Evil Pillar stands out for its focused route quality rather than volume.

Gear Requirements

Essential sport climbing gear is required, with quickdraws for bolts along all routes. Prepare for dusty granite and expect to clean loose rock debris before starting. Chalk and approach shoes suited for dry, steep hillside terrain are recommended.

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Tags

sport climbing
granite
east-facing
desert
technical
single pitch
5.10b