"Evil Eye offers a sharp, technical sport climb on Box Springs Mountain’s Main Wall Left. With thin edges and a challenging bulge crux, this 20-foot pitch demands focus and precision, rewarding climbers ready for a step up in difficulty."
Evil Eye stakes its claim on the Main Wall Left of Box Springs Mountain Park, offering climbers a sharp, focused encounter on California’s Inland Empire rock. This single-pitch sport climb threads a line of bolts just right of its neighbor, Little Jerry Seinfeld, demanding precision and steady nerves. With a length of 20 feet, it's a compact but intense route that reveals thin edges and subtle holds that keep your fingers searching and feet balancing. From the stance off the deck, the climb launches with a series of moves that mimic the rhythm of LJS but quickly diverges into its unique challenge. The middle section, where the wall bulges around the second bolt—colloquially dubbed the “eye”—serves as the definitive test. Here, you’re pushed to read and execute a sequence that feels like a puzzle; the holds are less obvious, the weight shifts more deliberate.
The climb's rating at 5.9 may not entirely capture the effort required. Those who’ve raced up the route often share that Evil Eye carries a stiffer bite, closer to a 5.10b, especially factoring in the subtle hand jams and the thinner edges which demand efficient power. This makes it a perfect proving ground for climbers ready to push beyond the old standards, testing both finger strength and mental focus. The rock itself is typical Inland Empire granite—solid, but occasionally offering small flakes, making trusting your placements essential.
Evil Eye trends toward the afternoon sun, drying quickly after morning moisture, making midday to late afternoon the most comfortable climbing window. Approaching the wall is straightforward: a short hike from the Box Springs Mountain Park trailhead, through a forested slope that frames the climb with pines and manzanita bushes. The descent is equally accessible, with a simple walk-off to the right of the route, easing any post-send jitters.
Gear needs are minimal but precise: two bolts secure the line with a bolted anchor ready for lowering, so a standard sport rack will do. However, climbers should be prepared for sharp edges that will test their shoe choice and may benefit from tapered runners.
After an ascent, soak in the Inland Empire’s sun-drenched views and quiet natural pulse. Evil Eye is a stellar mix of approachable length and quietly demanding technique, fitting right into the fabric of Box Springs’ collection of engaging sport climbs.
Be cautious on the bulging ‘eye’ section where holds thin out and the rock can feel sharp. Ensure your shoes have good edging ability and maintain steady, balanced body positions to avoid slipping. The anchor bolts are sound but double-check your quickdraw placements to minimize rope drag.
Start your climb mid to late morning to allow the rock to warm and dry.
Choose climbing shoes with precise edging capability to handle thin holds.
Watch for occasionally sharp edges—approach the holds with controlled footwork.
Descend by walking off right of the route; no need for rappel gear.
The route is protected by two bolts with a bolted anchor for easy lowering. Minimal gear is required—bring standard sport climbing equipment and consider runners to manage rope drag along the thin edge line.
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