HomeClimbingEveryone's A Critic

Everyone's A Critic: A Bold Sport Climb in The Courtyard, Squamish

Squamish, Canada
sport climbing
layback crack
face climbing
granite
single pitch
intermediate
western exposure
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Everyone's A Critic
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A spirited 60-foot climb in Squamish’s The Courtyard, Everyone's A Critic demands precise laybacks and sharp face climbing. This sport route offers a focused challenge with reliable bolts and vibrant granite textures, ideal for intermediate climbers seeking to refine their technique."

Everyone's A Critic: A Bold Sport Climb in The Courtyard, Squamish

In the heart of the Squamish Valley, The Courtyard offers a compelling sport route that challenges both your technical skill and mental focus—Everyone's A Critic delivers 60 feet of vertical intensity marked by dynamic layback moves and a surprisingly demanding face section. The climb begins with a textured crack, inviting you to summon precise laybacks and body tension to reach the first bolt, where the real work begins. Above, the rock shifts character, asking for deft footwork and steady hands on a face that both tests balance and demands composure. The granite here has a firm grip, yet the route’s true challenge is reading the subtle holds that tease with their deceptive simplicity.

Situated within one of Squamish's most accessible climbing pockets, The Courtyard is a blend of exposed rock and cool shadows from towering evergreens, adding freshness to your ascent on warmer days. The route’s single pitch and moderate length make it an ideal outing for climbers who want a solid training ground or a focused challenge with minimal approach effort. The approach trails are straightforward, threading through forested sections before spilling out into open rock slabs, where the scent of pine mingles with the crisp mountain air.

Protection consists entirely of well-placed bolts, offering reliable security but rewarding careful clipping and route reading to maintain momentum. The route rate sits at a moderate 5.10b/c, balancing accessibility with just enough complexity to sharpen your skills. It's a climb that demands respect—neither a beginner's scramble nor an elite testpiece, it suits the adventurous intermediate climber looking to finesse their movement on Squamish's iconic granite.

Planning your climb here means preparing for varied terrain and subtle shifts in difficulty. Wear climbing shoes with a firm edge for the layback crack and sticky rubber to stick to the face holds above. Because of its western exposure, mornings offer prime climbing conditions with sun-dappled rock and cooler temperatures, while afternoons can bring direct sunlight that heats the granite, making friction less reliable. Hydration and timing are key; mornings or early evenings are best to avoid heat fatigue.

Local advice also points to watching for debris on footpaths after rainy days—Squamish’s coastal climate can leave trails slick and scattered with fallen litter. Pack a light brush for cleaning holds if necessary, and respect the nature around you with leave-no-trace principles. The Courtyard is part of a larger climbing area known for its consistent quality and variety, giving climbers miles of granite playground within reach of the town. Everyone's A Critic rewards climbers who come prepared to focus, balance, and experience an invigorating slice of British Columbia's climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements on the face climbing segment where holds may appear more secure than they feel; the rock is solid but requires steady balance to avoid sudden slips. Ensure bolts are clipped cleanly to prevent rope drag on the twisting crack start. The trail can be slick after rain; exercise caution on descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to climb in morning shade and cooler temperatures.

Check trail conditions post-rain as sections can be slippery with loose debris.

Bring a small brush to clean holds if needed, especially after wet weather.

Stick to leave-no-trace principles to preserve the rock and environment.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10b/c, the climb's grade balances approachable difficulty with a spot that requires focused technique. The layback crack portion provides a straightforward physical test, but the face climbing above demands precise footwork and balance, introducing a crux that can feel stiff if movement isn’t smooth. Compared to nearby Squamish routes, it sits in the middle ground—not overly hard but with a solid challenge that rewards well-practiced footwork.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully bolted, requiring quick and efficient clipping. Layback crack climbing demands precise foot placement and a firm edge shoe, while the face climbing section benefits from shoes with sticky rubber for optimal grip. Carry a single rack of quickdraws and be ready for subtle hold reading.

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Tags

sport climbing
layback crack
face climbing
granite
single pitch
intermediate
western exposure