"Even Steven at Petrifying Wall is a technical 105-foot trad climb blending steep cracks, face holds, and overhangs. Its sustained 5.10+ challenges reward with sharp moves and stunning ocean views from the top."
Even Steven stands as a sharp challenge on the Petrifying Wall, demanding technical finesse right from the first move. The climb launches you steeply off the ground, immediately testing your balance and commitment on what quickly reveals itself as a complex dance of crack jams, face holds, and subtle edges. As you push upward, a blocky horn interrupts the line, leading to a small slab protection anchor bolted just above. This feature offers a brief moment to recalibrate, though the route continues to challenge with its shifting terrain. Moving beyond, you’ll encounter a left-facing corner that gives way to a sequence of hand and finger cracks intertwined with surprisingly abundant face holds. Small overhangs pepper the way, requiring a blend of power and technique over a vertical canvas that demands attention.
About 25 feet below the summit, the route veers left into a new crack system, setting the final approach to the chains that mark the top. From here, the climb offers one last opportunity to test your skills before reaching a bolted anchor that grants a spectacular panorama of the ocean, a hard-won reward for your effort. While the route might not boast towering popularity, its mix of moves and sustained difficulty at 5.10+ level make it a treasured line for those ready for a technical workout.
Protection calls for a double set of cams and a full set of nuts, with RPs or offset cams recommended for tricky placements. The slab anchor about 10 meters up offers a backup for rappelling if you’re working with a 60m rope, a common length choice here. Belayers will want to tie carefully into the belay rope to ensure smooth, secure lowers or rappels.
The approach into Petrifying Wall is straightforward yet demands focus, with trails that wind gently through forested sections before intersecting the base of the climb. Squamish’s unique coastal climate means the rock can be slick after rain, so dry conditions are best for a confident ascent. Plan your day to hit the wall in the morning light when the face is cool and the shadows help define holds clearly.
Even Steven transcends raw difficulty by weaving technical variety into a concise 105-foot pitch. Climbers who crave routes combining crack work, face climbing, and a taste of overhanging challenge will find this climb ticks those boxes. From the ocean vistas to the intense physicality, this route chips away at the limits of technique and grit out on British Columbia’s legendary cliffs.
The slab anchor 10 meters off the ground is essential for rappelling with a 60m rope—ensure it is properly clipped and inspect gear before descent. Coastal moisture can make holds slick, so plan your climb for dry, stable weather. The route requires careful placements, so bring a full rack and place gear diligently.
Approach the wall in dry conditions to avoid slick holds on the coastal rock.
Morning light best reveals the complex textures of the climb’s face.
Prepare for varied techniques: crack jams, face moves, and small overhangs.
Tie into the rope securely if lowering with a 60m rope to avoid rappel complications.
Double set of cams along with a full set of nuts; RPs or offset cams improve protection placements. A 60-meter rope may require intermediate rappelling from the slab anchor about 10 meters up. Belayers should be securely tied in for lowering or rappelling.
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