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Épiphanie: A Bold Trad Ascent in Quebec's Charlevoix

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
offwidth
chimney
traversing roof
trad trad climbing
Quebec
single pitch
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Épiphanie
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Épiphanie delivers a sharp, technical trad climb through a left-hand dihedral and chimney just outside Quebec City. This 100-foot single pitch demands precise jams and balance, culminating in a sweeping traverse beneath a bold roof."

Épiphanie: A Bold Trad Ascent in Quebec's Charlevoix

Épiphanie offers a concentrated pulse of trad climbing energy just outside Quebec City, set within the rugged outdoor classroom of Charlevoix. This single-pitch, 100-foot route focuses on technical skill and mental grit as it rises through a distinctive left-hand dihedral. Starting from the Saint-Taliban belay, climbers engage immediately with a short but meaningful offwidth that quickly opens into a chimney section. The rock here challenges your body with its shifting contours—tight enough to demand precise jamming yet spacious enough to test your footwork and balance.

Once beneath the prominent roof, Épiphanie calls for a purposeful traverse right. The holds here are solid and well-positioned, rewarding clean technique and controlled movement. This section leads you towards the tail end of Méphisto, linking two distinct climbing experiences to fill out a day of adventure.

The approach to the route is straightforward, though it requires a keen eye and reliable footwork on mixed terrain, including forest paths that frame distant river views. Given the moderate star rating, Épiphanie is ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills on varied features — from offwidth jamming to chimney climbing — without committing to a multi-pitch expedition.

Gear-wise, bring a full trad rack with emphasis on mid-size cams for the offwidth segment and smaller protection for the chimney. The holds’ security invites a confident hand and steady foot placement; a slip here can lead to an unsteady moment beneath the roof.

To make the most of the climb, start early in the day to avoid afternoon sun exposed on the rock and to benefit from cooler morning temperatures. Maintain a strong hydration plan as Charlevoix's air carries both chill and warmth depending on the season. Sturdy footwear that can handle cracks and offwidths will keep you comfortable through the entire push.

The soundscape adds to the atmosphere—birds flitting through the trees, the distant rush of nearby water bodies daring you forward. This route doesn’t just climb rock; it moves through a living environment eager to test and reward those who venture here.

In all, Épiphanie is a compelling climb for those who want a brief but complete trad experience rooted in Quebec’s wild heart. It encourages precision, patience, and an appreciation of rock’s subtle shifts underhand and foot, leaving climbers both humbled and gratified.

Climber Safety

The short offwidth-to-chimney section requires careful protection placement; loose or unsettling pro could increase risk. The traverse under the roof demands controlled movement to avoid swing falls. Approach with caution and ensure all gear placements are solid.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed rock sections.

Bring a rack focused on mid-size cams to protect the offwidth.

Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes to navigate the chimney with confidence.

Hydrate well; temperature shifts can be significant between morning and midday.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10+ rating on Épiphanie feels earned through its varied technical demands rather than sustained difficulty. The offwidth and chimney combine into a section that demands patience and technique, making the grade feel solid but not overly stiff. Climbers familiar with Quebec’s trad scene will recognize this climb as a test of control more than power—its crux lies in committing to the offwidth jams and confident roof traverse.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack is essential, emphasizing mid-sized cams for secure offwidth placements and smaller gear for the chimney section. Fixed protection is minimal, so solid pro placement skills are crucial.

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Tags

offwidth
chimney
traversing roof
trad trad climbing
Quebec
single pitch