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Enola Gay Trad Climb at The Vault, Shelf Road

Canon City, Colorado United States
crack climbing
trad rack needed
single pitch
moderate difficulty
sandstone
Shelf Road
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Enola Gay
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Enola Gay is a concise trad climb at Shelf Road’s The Vault that offers solid crack climbing on textured sandstone. Perfect for trad enthusiasts seeking a straightforward pitch with reliable gear placements and stunning valley views."

Enola Gay Trad Climb at The Vault, Shelf Road

Enola Gay offers a focused and rewarding trad climbing experience set within the rugged embrace of Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado. This single-pitch route is a straightforward yet engaging introduction to traditional crack climbing, boasting a pronounced crack and flake system that steadily guides you upward to the rim. The rock here wears the marks of time—solid, textured sandstone with enough features to challenge your footwork and gear placements without overwhelming complexity. Expect a climb around 5.8 in difficulty, where technique and steady movement trump brute force.

The approach to Enola Gay situates you in a less crowded corner of The Vault, just east of the popular climbs Holiday in Cambodia and T.B., about a 200-yard walk along exposed sandstone ledges. The approach trail is unmarked but clear enough for those accustomed to canyoneering in the region—expect some loose scree to negotiate on your way in.

Gear up with a traditional rack tailored for crack protection; no fixed anchors exist, so a solid set of cams and nuts will serve you well. Protection is straightforward, but placing your gear confidently in the flake system will be key to maintaining safety and fluid movement. The rock’s reliability rewards mindful placements, though vigilance is advised as some flakes can feel marginal under weight.

Under the bright Colorado sun, the wall tends to warm comfortably during midday climbs, making spring and fall the best seasons to visit. Summer’s heat can bake the sandstone, while winter climbs risk icy patches near the approach. Once atop the rim, panoramic views reward your efforts with sweeping glimpses of the Arkansas River Valley and the surrounding red rock landscape.

Descent requires a careful downclimb or a controlled rappel off traditional anchors you place on the way up. Downclimbing demands good route memory and solid footwork; anchors should be set conservatively to ensure a safe retreat. With two votes corroborating its moderate challenge, Enola Gay stands as an ideal route for climbers stepping confidently into classic trad terrain or those seeking a rapid yet satisfying climb in Shelf Road's extensive portfolio.

Local climbers appreciate Enola Gay for its accessibility and well-proportioned difficulty, making it a steady option before tackling more complicated nearby routes. The Vault remains a quieter pocket within the Shelf Road climbing area, preserving a raw, natural feel where the sandstone seems almost alive, daring you to test your skills against its grains and cracks. With practical preparation and a clear head, this climb becomes a thorough and invigorating notch in your trad climbing logbook.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements carefully, especially on flakes that can be marginal. The downclimb back to the base includes loose scree and exposed ledges—descending with caution is essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach from the main Vault area, heading about 200 yards east of T.B. route.

Use spring or fall to avoid the hot midday sun baking the sandstone.

Practice solid crack placements, as some flakes need close inspection before trusting.

Descent is best managed by a controlled rappel or a confident downclimb along the ascent line.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Enola Gay feels true to its style—accessible but requiring careful technique on crack placements and footwork. It doesn’t overstate difficulty but includes a crux section on the flake system that demands attention, making it a firm but not intimidating challenge comparable to other Shelf Road trad routes in this range.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full traditional rack with a focus on cams and nuts for the crack and flake system; no fixed anchors are in place, so be prepared to place your own protection carefully.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad rack needed
single pitch
moderate difficulty
sandstone
Shelf Road