HomeClimbingEnchanted Stairway

Enchanted Stairway: A Sunlit Joshua Tree Trad Challenge

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad
face climb
exposed start
first bolt high
Joshua Tree
desert
sunny aspect
single pitch
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Enchanted Stairway
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Nestled on the sunlit flanks of Disneyland Dome, Enchanted Stairway demands precise 5.9 trad climbing with a bold, exposed first bolt and technical high-step moves. Ideal for cooler days, this route blends desert isolation with engaging rock features for a memorable single-pitch adventure."

Enchanted Stairway: A Sunlit Joshua Tree Trad Challenge

Enchanted Stairway invites climbers into the stark beauty of Joshua Tree National Park with a single pitch that demands focus and finesse. Located on the popular Disneyland Dome, this 150-foot route offers a blend of technical face climbing and crack features that test your precision and confidence. From the ground, the climb demands careful planning; the first bolt perches 40 feet high, leaving a heart-pounding moment before protection anchors you in. The rock’s personality comes alive here—the surface rough and dry, punctuated by small chicken heads that compel you into a tricky high step and mantle about midway to the first bolt.

Below your feet, a weathered Manzanita bush sprawls with broken branches, a silent witness to climbers’ past daring or nature’s own struggle against the elements. This visual keeps you sharp, reminding you that the exposure is real and focused technique is essential. Above the first bolt, the climbing tightens with a series of 5.9 moves: powerful, precise, yet rewarding, peeling upwards on small holds and subtle edges. As you push through, the rock eases on generous patina flakes, offering moments of calm before the final stretch.

A second bolt marks the transition before the last 60 feet to the top, where the route opens into sun-drenched ledges perfect for soaking in the high desert air. The climb’s southern exposure makes it an ideal target on cooler days when the sun is a welcome partner rather than a relentless challenge. Joshua Tree’s arid air carries the scent of creosote and dry earth, while the occasional breeze lifts dust and whispers through the rock formations.

For leaders comfortable in 5.9 terrain, Enchanted Stairway delivers both adventure and practicality. The protection includes two fixed bolts, with opportunities to sling flakes and horns beyond the second bolt to supplement your anchors if desired. This route blends the thrill of bold face climbing with the reliability of solid placements, perfect for those building confidence on natural protection in a classic desert setting.

Approach is straightforward from the Wonderland of Rocks parking area, a well-maintained trail winding through sage and rock scrambles. The hike in is about 20 minutes, with clear signage and a GPS waypoint at 34.0462 latitude, -116.1445 longitude. Remember to carry enough water, wear sturdy shoes to handle both rugged terrain and sharp rock edges, and start early to avoid midday heat when climbing in warmer months. Making the climb earlier in the day also means safer, cooler rock and less sun exposure on your skin.

Descending is simple; once on top, climbers can rappel using the established anchors or walk off towards the back of the dome where a gentle scrubby descent leads back to the trail. The route is a gem for those looking to combine desert solitude and technical challenge in a manageable, rewarding package.

Enchanted Stairway offers a window into Joshua Tree’s climbing spirit—where exposure, skill, and connection with a wild landscape form every ascent. Whether you seek to push your trad skills or enjoy a sun-soaked climb on a crisp day, this route beckons with clear lines and bold moves waiting to be unraveled.

Climber Safety

The first bolt is 40 feet above the ground with no protection, so precise footwork and commitment are vital early on. Loose rock is minimal, but watch for patchy Manzanita branches below. Weather can change rapidly; check forecasts for heat spikes and avoid climbing midday in summer to reduce dehydration risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy sun exposure without overheating—ideal on chilly days.

Scout the first 40 feet carefully before clipping the first bolt for safe bold moves.

Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber to manage the high step and mantle sections.

Bring extra slings to extend protection on flakes past the second bolt.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 with an R for runout sections, this climb challenges leaders with a lofty first bolt and a couple of 5.8 to 5.9 moves that require firm footwork and confidence. The protection feels adequate once past the initial crux, though the substantial gap to the first bolt means a buoyant mental game. Compared to other Joshua Tree classics, this route leans slightly on the bolder side but rewards well-prepared climbers.

Gear Requirements

The climb features two fixed bolts plus opportunities to sling solid flakes and horns beyond the second bolt. A rack of standard cams and nuts covering small to medium sizes is recommended; attention to flake placements will improve security on the route’s upper section.

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Tags

trad
face climb
exposed start
first bolt high
Joshua Tree
desert
sunny aspect
single pitch