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Emissions Testing: A Classic Trad Climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
hand crack
flare crack
slab finish
helmet recommended
single pitch
Colorado trad
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Emissions Testing
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Emissions Testing offers a reliable and engaging 65-foot trad pitch featuring tight hand jams, a flaring crux, and a moderate slab finish. Situated in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, it’s perfect for climbers ready to test solid crack skills in a striking Colorado granite setting."

Emissions Testing: A Classic Trad Climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Emissions Testing stands out as a solid, approachable trad climb along the rugged walls of Mechanical Man in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. This route offers a compelling blend of hand jams, flaring fingers, and a slab finish that challenges climbers without overwhelming them. From the very first moves, you engage with a right-facing corner rich with cracks that invite thoughtful gear placements and steady feet. The rock here demands attention; a few loose flakes remain and may come down as you ascend, urging caution and a steady pace.

Starting from the leftmost of three bolt and gear belays, the climb takes you through a series of sustained jams that reward well-placed protection and solid technique. The crux, rated at 5.9-, requires tight hands jamming in a flaring corner, testing your control and composure. Beyond the corner, the route opens onto a moderate 5.0 slab that invites a moment to catch your breath and admire the canyon’s rugged character.

This pitch measures around 65 feet and finishes at a bolted anchor, which offers strategic options—retreat or continue climbing the nearby routes such as Bending Nails (5.7) or the Finish Carpenter (5.9). For those eager to extend their adventure, the climb also connects rightward toward Antifreeze and The Big Narrow, weaving through moderate cracks and ledges in an inviting but exposed terrain.

The landscape embraces you with granite faces weathered by wind and sun, while below, the South Fork St. Vrain meanders with a soft murmur, a constant reminder of the wild setting you’ve entered. You’ll feel the canyon’s rough edges, and the occasional toppling scrap of rock adds a sense of immediacy to the climb. This is climbing that rewards attention to detail—on your gear, your moves, and the environment.

Protection calls for a rack that spans from finger-sized cams up to 3-inch placements, with plenty of slings to link gear efficiently around the features and avoid rope drag. The placements tend to be straightforward, but the variability in crack angles means you’ll want a full range of sizes ready. The bolted anchor adds a reassuring endpoint for this solitary pitch on a wall that sees less traffic than other Front Range classics.

Access requires a steady approach through the South Fork corridor, manageable with good trail conditions leading up to Mechanical Man. The route’s orientation brings sun in the afternoon, warming the granite and drying out faster after spring snowmelt, but also exposing climbers to direct sunlight on warmer days. Early mornings or late afternoons in spring and fall offer the most comfortable temperatures.

Descending typically involves rappelling from the anchor back to the base. Prepare for careful rope management and watch for loose rock on the rappel path, particularly after windy or wet spells. Staying alert during descent is as important as staying focused on the climb.

Emissions Testing is an ideal pitch for climbers seeking a moderate, concentrated trad experience infused with the raw personality of the St. Vrain Canyons. It’s a route that demands respect, rewards commitment, and fits neatly into a day of climbing that balances technical skills with scenic wilderness immersion.

Climber Safety

Loose flakes remain on the route, particularly near the crux corner segment. Always wear a helmet and ensure the belayer is positioned away from fall zones. The rappel descent can also be loose in spots; spot hazards carefully during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Expect some loose flakes—wear a helmet and climb cautiously to avoid rockfall injuries.

The bolted anchor allows for safe retreat or multi-route link-ups to extend the day.

Plan your climb for spring or fall mornings and afternoons to avoid strong sun exposure.

Single pitch with a short approach—good hiking boots recommended for stability on rocky trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9-, Emissions Testing’s grade feels fair with a distinct crux requiring tighthand jams in a flaring corner. The slab above serves as a moderate cool-down section but demands balance and focus. This pitch offers a straightforward but engaging challenge, well suited to climbers comfortable on hands and fingers cracks.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack ranging from finger-sized cams up to 3-inch units, plus numerous slings for properly extending gear placements. The route features continuous jams and flaring corners that demand thoughtful gear management to minimize rope drag.

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Tags

hand crack
flare crack
slab finish
helmet recommended
single pitch
Colorado trad