"Em Ion offers a focused 40-foot trad climb with a technical crux at the base’s roof. This route invites climbers to test precise gear placements and crack technique amid the raw granite of Pine Creek Canyon’s Crack of Noon Buttress."
The Em Ion route delivers a focused and rewarding trad climb tucked away at the base of Crack of Noon Buttress, deep within the rugged Pine Creek Canyon near Bishop, California. This single-pitch, 40-foot crack climb invites you to engage directly with the rock’s raw textures, starting with a hefty boulder prominently split by a clean, inviting crack. Your first move is the crux: a delicate mantle over a small roof, demanding precise foot placement and trusting minimal protection—small nuts and brass pieces only—to safeguard your ascent.
Beyond this technical lip, the crack widens and smooths out into a straightforward but satisfying hand-to-fist slot. This progression rewards you with steady movement and the tactile pleasure of placing your own anchors and belay system atop a ledge. The rock’s surface transitions from gritty to glassy, challenging your grip and balance while offering a genuine connection to the granite’s evolving character.
The climb’s location on the eastern Sierra’s edge means temperatures fluctuate throughout the day, with morning shade giving way to warm sun in the afternoon. This aspect makes the best climbing window spring through early fall, when the air is crisp but not biting cold. Approaching Em Ion requires a moderate hike across uneven terrain, winding through pine-studded slopes and shifting from forest to open granite slabs. Allow about 30-40 minutes on foot, covering varied surfaces that test your footing before your hands even reach the rock.
Gear up with a compact rack emphasizing small nuts and protection suited to thin cracks; a full-size range helps, but prepare for the limited placements on the crux section. This modest protection challenge heightens the mental focus necessary to move confidently without hesitation. Place securely, stay controlled, and savor the rhythm of climbing that demands both body and mind engage in equal measure.
Climbers drawn to Em Ion will appreciate its approachable rating of 5.8 paired with a subtle technical edge that keeps the experience engaging without overwhelming less experienced trad climbers. The route’s straight crack system lends itself well to practicing clean gear management and efficient movement.
Descent is straightforward: downclimb carefully from the top or set up your own rappel anchors. Keep in mind the approach trail requires attentive navigation especially if returning late, as terrain darkens quickly and footing becomes tricky.
Whether you’re testing trad basics or adding a solid route to your Bishop itinerary, Em Ion stands as a true example of the region’s accessible granite crack climbing. It encourages focus, rewards careful protection placement, and offers a taste of the area's scenic grandeur combined with technical climbing. Prepare well, respect the rock, and enjoy every moment where your hands meet the crack and the mountain quietly challenges your skill and calm.
The crux roof demands confident gear placements on small nuts and brass—fall potential is minimized by careful protection but remains serious. The approach trail is uneven and can become slippery when wet, so exercise caution, especially during descent when fatigue sets in.
Bring a rack focused on small nuts and brass for the crux section.
The approach is about 30-40 minutes across mixed terrain—good hiking shoes will help.
Best climbed in spring through early fall to avoid cold and wet conditions.
Set your own anchor at the top; bring extra slings and locking carabiners.
Small to full-size nut rack recommended, with brass pieces suitable for the sparse protection around the crux roof. Be prepared for delicate gear placements that require confidence and precision.
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