"Ellery Dam Spillway Crag offers a compact collection of technical cracks and steep aretes set high in California’s Eastern Sierra. With accessible approaches and a variety of classic moderate routes, it’s a focused destination for climbers who appreciate technical movement and clear alpine vistas."
Ellery Dam Spillway Crag stands as a concise but rewarding destination for climbers looking to engage with technical cracks and sharp aretes just east of the Ellery Dam in California’s Eastern Sierra. At an elevation near 9,500 feet, this compact rock formation rises roughly 60 feet, offering an intimate climbing experience that’s easy to approach yet packed with quality routes. The crag’s setting, just a brisk 10-minute quarter-mile walk from the parking area, leads across Rhinedollar Dam and a dirt track. Upon arrival, climbers are greeted by a rugged jumble of rock perched above the road that invites hands-on exploration and careful navigation of its features.
The climbing here leans heavily on crack and arete climbing with a focus on moderate to advanced skill levels. The centerpiece “Gold Mind” crack, rated 5.9, cuts through the heart of the formation and demands a blend of finger strength and technique. Directly adjacent lies the sport route “Ellery Arete,” which challenges climbers with steeper moves at 5.11a, bolstered by four fixed protection bolts. This route, like many in the area, rewards precision and commitment. The west end once featured the “Spillway Arete” at 5.10d, but a significant rockfall—probably from snow pressure—has transformed that section and left the slabby arete awaiting a retrofit for protection.
The routes at Spillway Crag emphasize clean movement on solid rock, with protection bolts in place on many climbs apart from the collapsed section. Classic climbs include the Roof-to-Dihedral (5.6), Gold Mind (5.9), Crack (5.9), Unknown Dihedral (5.10a), Triple Ripple (5.10b), and Ellery Arête (5.11a), providing a range of challenges for climbers progressing through moderate grades. The climbs generally reward steady footwork and an understanding of crack techniques rather than explosive power.
Access is straightforward, making this spot a reliable option for a half-day outing. Parking is available on a dirt pullout just north of Ellery Dam along US 120. From there, a short walk crosses the Rhinedollar Dam before veering onto a dirt road heading east. Within 250 yards, Spillway Crag appears on the right, perched above the trail. The approach terrain is gentle and level, favoring climbers who want to conserve energy for the rock rather than a strenuous hike.
Because of its elevation and east-facing location, the crag is best climbed from late spring through early fall. Shade is limited, so mornings and late afternoons tend to be more comfortable during hotter months. Winter conditions can be harsh and contributed to rockfall damage, so avoid climbing here during snowy or icy periods.
Protection on routes like Ellery Arete is sport-style with fixed bolts, but many of the other cracks require traditional gear placements. Climbers should come prepared with a rack that covers small to medium cams and nuts to safely protect the finger and hand cracks that pepper the crag. Given the recent collapse of the Spillway Arete’s fixed hardware, caution and careful assessment of the rock’s stability is advised.
The broader climbing area falls within the striking Eastern Sierra region, known for its high elevation, clear air, and rugged mountain vistas. While Spillway Crag lacks the expansive walls of more famous nearby venues, it offers focused, technical challenges in a calm setting away from crowds. The proximity to Lee Vining Canyon ensures easy access to amenities, while still immersing climbers in a sharp alpine environment.
Approaching from Lee Vining, the area benefits from stable weather patterns typical of California’s high country, with prime climbing months stretching from May through September. Precipitation is low compared to other Sierra zones, but sudden weather changes demand preparedness.
To descend, climbers typically downclimb or walk off along the approach trail, as fixed rap anchors are limited—particularly in the aftermath of the rockfall. Planning the descent route beforehand is wise to avoid surprises. Overall, Ellery Dam Spillway Crag offers a compelling mix of technical climbing, easy access, and the high-desert mountain feel of the Eastern Sierra. It’s an ideal destination for climbers seeking stout crack climbs and sharp aretes in a scenic yet practical setting.
Rockfall has recently altered the west end of the crag, destroying protection bolts and anchors on the Spillway Arete. Be cautious around this section, inspect fixed gear before trusting it, and avoid climbing there if unsure. Weather can be unpredictable at 9,500 feet, so check forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes, especially in shoulder seasons.
Park at the dirt pullout north of Ellery Dam on US 120 for the shortest approach.
Cross Rhinedollar Dam and follow the dirt road east about 0.25 miles to reach the crag.
Avoid climbing the collapsed west end where bolts and anchors have been lost.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs are best during summer to avoid direct sun.
Approach the crag by parking at the dirt pullout on US 120 north of Ellery Dam, then cross the Rhinedollar Dam and take a dirt road east for about a quarter-mile. Bring a rack suitable for finger and hand cracks alongside sport draws for bolted routes like Ellery Arete. The collapsed Spillway Arete’s bolts have been destroyed, so avoid that section or proceed with caution. Prepare for single pitch climbs up to 60 feet high.
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