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Elephant's Arse Crack: Squamish Trad Hand Crack Challenge

Squamish,British Columbia ,Canada
hand crack
trad
single pitch
moderate approach
granite
bolt anchor
smoke bluffs
crux
Grade: 5.10c
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Elephant's Arse Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Elephant's Arse Crack

5.10c, Trad

Squamish

British Columbia ,Canada

Overview

"This 30-foot trad route in Squamish tests your hand crack skills with a direct, technical line. Despite a somewhat dirty start, climbers are rewarded with solid placements and a bolted anchor atop a classic Smoke Bluffs granite face."

Elephant's Arse Crack: Squamish Trad Hand Crack Challenge

Elephant's Arse Crack carves a distinct path through the Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, offering trad climbers a solid single-pitch adventure that demands both technical finesse and thoughtful gear management. Unlike some of its more trafficked neighbors, this hand crack can initially feel a bit uninviting with a dirty start, but as you settle into the rhythm of the fissure, the rock reveals its character—solid, textured, and ready to test your crack climbing skills. The 30-foot route takes you up a direct line on an unforgiving hand crack, culminating at a fixed bolt anchor, a reassuring sign after the intense moves.

The climb’s 5.10c rating hints at the commitment required; expect a sustained sequence of jams and locks that call for clean technique and confidence, especially where the crack tightens. Double up on hand-sized cams — the gear placements become essential as the crack’s width fluctuates, ensuring both safety and peace of mind. Though the approach can leave the beginning feeling slightly gritty, this section primes you for a pure, straightforward crack experience.

Set against the raw granite faces of the Smoke Bluffs, the climb is surrounded by the dense pine and fir forests typical of coastal British Columbia. A fresh breeze often dances through the trees, carrying the faint scent of cedar and the distant murmur of the Squamish River. This outdoor classroom challenges your technique while rewarding with commanding views of the towering cliffs and, on clear days, the shimmering waters of Howe Sound not far below.

To get here, hikers follow well-marked trails weaving through the Bluffs, navigating moderate terrain that takes about 15 to 20 minutes from the main parking area. The approach demands sturdy footwear—the mix of rocky ground and forest floor can be slick in wet conditions. Climbing in late spring through early fall gives the best combination of dry holds and manageable temperatures, avoiding the damp chill that arrives with early winter rains.

Elephant’s Arse Crack stands out as a quieter alternative to the busy climbs nearby, offering a chance for soloists and rope partners to engage with pure crack climbing without the crowds. It’s a valuable addition to any Squamish itinerary for those seeking to build hand crack proficiency amid stunning natural scenery.

Make sure to bring a range of cams from hand sizes upwards, brush off the initial section carefully, and pace yourself through the crux where the crack pinches tight. While the fixed bolted anchor adds security, focus on smooth placements to minimize rope drag and maintain energy. A water bottle and light snacks make for a comfortable session, and early starts help avoid afternoon gatherings on the rock.

Elephant’s Arse Crack speaks plainly to climbers who want technical challenge with minimal fanfare—no flashy routes, just solid granite, honest protection, and a chance to sharpen your trad craft under the watchful sky of Squamish.

Climber Safety

The initial section can hold some loose rock and dirt, so brushing beforehand is essential. Watch your placements in the tighter sections to avoid gear pullout. Also, the approach trail may become slippery after rain—proceed with caution.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10c
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Brush the dirty start thoroughly before climbing to clear loose debris.

Double up on hand-sized cam placements to handle varying crack widths.

Start early to enjoy quieter conditions and drier rock surfaces.

Wear sturdy approach shoes to manage the rocky and forested path.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating reflects a sustained hand crack with a defined crux where the crack narrows. It feels true to grade, challenging both finger strength and precise footwork, without overstating difficulty. Compared to nearby climbs like Elephantiasis, Elephant’s Arse Crack offers a slightly more technical start but is generally approachable for climbers stepping into the 5.10 trad realm.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack focusing on doubling up hand-sized cams. A bolted anchor tops the climb for secure belays.

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Tags

hand crack
trad
single pitch
moderate approach
granite
bolt anchor
smoke bluffs
crux